Etch Help please.....

[The Smythe Meister]

Forgot to say, when using superglue I always put a scrap of double sided tape on a block, leaving the waxed paper on it. Drop the superglue on it and it remains workable for ages if you transfer the glue to the joint with a pin.

Tim... As ever,a font of knowledge Sir!!
Great tips from you also.... especially the one about not soldering the etch to plastic,
Thank you very much mate.... "double sided sticky tape"... Genius idea.
Andy

 

[Tim Marlow]

What a great day on the forum….I was earlier told I was right, and now I’ve been accused of genius. Would that all days were like this LOL

 

[BattleshipBob]

What a great day on the forum….I was earlier told I was right, and now I’ve been accused of genius. Would that all days were like this LOL

Bet that cost you lol

 

[JR]

Thanks to you too Jon.....more great tips, much appreciated ,
I`ve got some PVA glue for sure...... and i`m PRETTY confident that i can get some spit from somewhere!!
Andy

PM inbound

 

[David Lovell]

Cripes I'm a slob never washed photo etch or kit parts let alone all this ruffing up the surfaces stuff but hey work's for me ,but for what its worth I use two of the super glues from Deluxe the yellow labled one gives five to ten seconds grace the blue lable a gel one ten to twenty plenty of fiddle time ,I also find its easier to put a tiny dot on the kit where the peice is to be fitted this I'll do with old scaple blades ,cocktail sticks ,piece of old sprue sharpened to a point ,syringe needles (also good for drilling out small barrels or use as a bradle to make sure you start drilling in the right place)old airbrush needles loads of stuff you can use as a aplicator. I'm with Steve with the lid thing bisto lids as Steve said pringles lids the good thing is when there's no space left flex the lid all the hard bits of glue just pop off leaving you to start again. Just remember less is more a small dot glues as good as a blob ,that's like me but with a s. Dave

 

[rtfoe]

All covered above but to hold some really small parts is have them on a bit if blu tac on a tooth pick. To stop shacky hands try as much to tack the parts down with tape or a pair of extra hand clips then apply the CA carefully not touching the tape or blu tac.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Airborne01]

For some parts on AFVs, eg tool clamps and mesh, I use an AK chemical that blackens the brass; that way interior surfaces of the clamps, or chips and scratches acquire a 'natural' appearance without too much work!
Steve

 

[Tworrs]

Some great advice there guys, thank you.
I will take all of what has been said on board for my own modelling as well.

 

[adt70hk]

Indeed lots to think about!!

Ian's point about keeping it in the fridge is well made....I heard it a while ago...I think on here and it does seem to keep much better.... At least in my experience!

 

[Jakko]

I`ve read somewhere that a Fibre pen is best to score up the etch surface..... whatchya reckon?

I just use sandpaper or a diamond file. You can just carefully sand the whole side of a sheet of etched brass, before removing any parts from it, but only do that if you’re sure that that side is the one that (nearly) all parts will be glued on. Reading Steve’s comments makes me think I don’t want to use a fibre-glass pen at all

grab some activator as well. Makes it dry even quicker when it is needed to be

But also makes the bond weaker, because it prevents the glue from forming very long polymers. Breathing on superglue has much the same effect, though not as quickly: superglue sets through the action of water vapour in the air, so if you breathe out onto drying superglue, you speed up its setting. But again, this weakens the bond compared to letting it dry normally.

 

[Ian M]

One of the best things I have found those fiber pencils for is removing glue marks... after having brushed my hand over the work top to move the junk heap after a clean up. I found out the BEST thing is to let it stay in the tool box!

 

[minitnkr]

CA works fine for me. I use the thicker type that gives more work time & will fill small gaps. I also have 'kicker' to cure it immediately, but seldom need it. Works metal/plastic & metal/metal.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
PE can be extremely time consuming and frustrating. I find that having a dictionary of swear words and a bin handy is a great help regardless of what glue you use!
Jim

 

[JR]

I just use sandpaper or a diamond file. You can just carefully sand the whole side of a sheet of etched brass, before removing any parts from it, but only do that if you’re sure that that side is the one that (nearly) all parts will be glued on. Reading Steve’s comments makes me think I don’t want to use a fibre-glass pen at all


But also makes the bond weaker, because it prevents the glue from forming very long polymers. Breathing on superglue has much the same effect, though not as quickly: superglue sets through the action of water vapour in the air, so if you breathe out onto drying superglue, you speed up its setting. But again, this weakens the bond compared to letting it dry normally.

Used the activator for years before I returned to modelling, it was the go to thing to use after fixing a cornice in Kitchens and Bedrooms, never had any problems with it being weaker , also used it it in joinery with out any mishaps. If it makes the bond weaker why recommend it, it would soon be with drawn if professional users complained .


Cyanoacrylate (CA glue) is made out of 91% ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (ECA), 9% polymethacrylate, <0.5% hydroquinone, and a hint of natural sulfonic corrosive. More tender pastes are usually nearer to 100% unadulterated ECA.

CA glue is reactive, which is the reason the stabilizer remains in a fluid state. It sticks the second that moisture deactivates its stabilizers, and the bond starts to polymerize in lasting security.

The bonding reaction is consolidated by a water fume on the outside of two substrates. The quicker the glue is caught between these two surfaces, the faster it activates. The equivalent goes for moisture – the more damp the substrate is, the quicker the super glue will activate it.

Since curing begins at the surface and moves toward the middle, thick creases or huge dabs of the paste may solidify gradually or not in any way. Maintain a strategic distance from wrinkles thicker than.25mm if you need protected security.

CA glue’s quickening agents are ordinarily CH3)2CO based, utilizing CH3)2CO is the essential dissipating specialist. This implies that once applied, the CH3)2CO vanishes leaving a functioning quicke

 

[Tim Marlow]

Wow, every day is a school day John……I thought it set in the absence of air and the presence of moisture. Perhaps I’ve confused it with locktite bearing retainer? I’m also surprised it’s used that much use in kitchen fitting to be honest. My experience is that CA doesn’t have much in the way of sheer strength, unlike alternatives such as epoxy.

 

[Isitme]

Hello Andy,
Etch - the bane of many a poor life....
When I start work with etch the first thing after removing it from the packaging is to turn it over and gently sand the back side with some 600 wet n dry, this entails stroking the 600 across the brass, although larger bits can be sanded by rubbing. The idea is to score the brass so that the c/a (superglue) will have something to key onto.
C/a (superglue) I use a mix of DeLuxe materials Rocket thin and medium, mixed 50/50 from each bottle which I find gives me the time to locate and hold in place. For an applicator I use a standard sewing needle with the tip sanded into a chisel shape and for the 'holder I drill a hole into an old wooden clothes peg half and c/a the pin into this. When you have glued a piece wipe of the excess from the pin onto tissue, and to clean the pin I scrape the old c/a off with a knife blade and reshape on wet n dry. If yo find you have put too much c/a onto your piece, just remove the c/a by gently dabbing it with a bit of toilet roll tissue.
Hope this helps. Mike.

 

[scottie3158]

Hello mate,
First I always wash carefully with some soapy water and dry. Then as Mike has said roughen the surface, I also for large pieces lightly scratch both the PE and the plastic with the tip of a sharp blade. Next is to study the part carefully and work out how it should look when done and a logical folding sequence. A normal rule of thumb is to fold towards the mark on the etch if that makes sense. And finally and most importantly don't just use the etch because it is there a lot of times the kit part or a scratched alternative are better as PE is 2 dimensional. for example tie downs and handles are better made from wire. HTH.

 

[Isitme]

Hello mate,
First I always wash carefully with some soapy water and dry. Then as Mike has said roughen the surface, I also for large pieces lightly scratch both the PE and the plastic with the tip of a sharp blade. Next is to study the part carefully and work out how it should look when done and a logical folding sequence. A normal rule of thumb is to fold towards the mark on the etch if that makes sense. And finally and most importantly don't just use the etch because it is there a lot of times the kit part or a scratched alternative are better as PE is 2 dimensional. for example tie downs and handles are better made from wire. HTH.

Fully agree, except for the part about washing in soapy water, I like a good shower - ok time to get my coat.....

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Used the activator for years before I returned to modelling, it was the go to thing to use after fixing a cornice in Kitchens and Bedrooms, never had any problems with it being weaker , also used it it in joinery with out any mishaps. If it makes the bond weaker why recommend it, it would soon be with drawn if professional users complained .


Cyanoacrylate (CA glue) is made out of 91% ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (ECA), 9% polymethacrylate, <0.5% hydroquinone, and a hint of natural sulfonic corrosive. More tender pastes are usually nearer to 100% unadulterated ECA.

CA glue is reactive, which is the reason the stabilizer remains in a fluid state. It sticks the second that moisture deactivates its stabilizers, and the bond starts to polymerize in lasting security.

The bonding reaction is consolidated by a water fume on the outside of two substrates. The quicker the glue is caught between these two surfaces, the faster it activates. The equivalent goes for moisture – the more damp the substrate is, the quicker the super glue will activate it.

Since curing begins at the surface and moves toward the middle, thick creases or huge dabs of the paste may solidify gradually or not in any way. Maintain a strategic distance from wrinkles thicker than.25mm if you need protected security.

CA glue’s quickening agents are ordinarily CH3)2CO based, utilizing CH3)2CO is the essential dissipating specialist. This implies that once applied, the CH3)2CO vanishes leaving a functioning quicke

Erm.... You lost me at "Used the activator" !!

 

[Jim R]

...... gently sand the back side with some 600 wet n dry,

Isn't that rather painful.