Grant CDL in 1:35

Jakko

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Though I still have the JPK 120 to finish, I can’t spray it at the moment because of the high winds we’ve been having here of late (I need to open a window for the exhaust of my spray booth, and it faces the prevailing wind direction) so I’ve decided to start on a new kit:

5BB531E1-83FB-4C20-9A80-1251009DB4BE.jpeg

The Takom 1:35 scale Grant CDL. For those who don’t know, during the Second World War, the British saw a need for powerful searchlights to illuminate the battlefield at night, as well as to dazzle enemy troops. These became known under the camouflage designation of Canal Defence Lights (CDL) so as not to give away their real purpose to German intelligence. Basically, it consisted of a purpose-built turret that housed a powerful carbon arc lamp, whose light bounced off some reflectors to exit the turret through a vertical slot in its front face. This had an intensity of about 12.8 million candela, or something like a hundred thousand times the output of a typical household light, into a beam with a 19° horizontal and a 10° vertical angle; this produced an illuminated area 300 metres wide and 30 metres high at 900 metres’ range, with a maximum effective range of some 3.5 km. An armoured shutter could be used to protect the light as well as to give a stroboscopic effect (of about 2 Hz), and a red or blue filter could also be put in the opening. The turret further housed the operator and a Besa machine gun in a ball mount.

Initially, these turrets were fitted to Matilda II tanks and deployed to (but not actually used in) the North African theatre:

426751B0-1BBC-4ED0-8F17-DA1A573609EE.jpeg

However, for the war in Europe, they were fitted to Grant medium tanks instead. This was done because the Grant had a 75 mm gun in the hull, meaning the tank would have the ability to defend itself better than the Matilda CDL could, as that only had the Besa.

2FB44792-4FA7-45D9-BABC-9BB175ECA45F.jpeg

As in the photo above, these were sometimes fitted with dummy guns on the turret to not draw attention on the battlefield.

The Americans were also interested and built essentially a copy of the British version, using M3 medium tank hulls (known to the British as the Lee) and changing the turret to carry an M1919 Browning machine gun instead of the Besa:

66387564-4E08-4989-B111-D40DA2D246A9.jpeg

This was known as the T10 Shop Tractor, another cover name to hide its true function.

In the end, all that secrecy was the vehicle’s weak point: both armies wanted to wait with deploying them until a battle in which they could prove decisive, and as a result, commanders who might have had a use for them, usually didn’t know about their existence in the first place. Even though the Matildas had been built and issued in 1941, CDLs were only used operationally from late 1944 on: first the British tanks were used to illuminate mine-clearing operations in November that year, while the American ones saw their first use to defend the Ludendorff bridge at Remagen after its capture; the British vehicles were then also used in the Rhine crossing at Rees and the American ones in the crossing of the Elbe at the very end of the war. Some were then shipped to India, but never used against the Japanese — though they did see use in putting down riots in 1946. This is why the only surviving Grant CDL is in the Indian Armoured Corps museum in Maharashtra:

1280px-M-3_Grant_Tank._%2831899280626%29.jpg
(source)

Bovington has a Matilda CDL, but IIRC, this is a Grant CDL turret put onto a Matilda hull later on, to have a representative vehicle.
 
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Jakko

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As for the kit, this is what you get:

B6E03C50-E0A2-499F-9371-5E6A4E0927C6.jpeg78C1BF49-A829-4DF7-BB2E-2CBBE1D878B0.jpegF523B0AE-BEA0-4B65-B607-10CCFB2B1B16.jpegCE7945F1-884B-484D-B3E7-0ABA34A3D343.jpegCF5CAD7C-B29D-41F7-B2B3-A7D664F7961E.jpeg5E5CA5AD-E4EB-40D8-9342-752C7419FBE5.jpeg

The usual Takom quality, basically. I haven’t built one of their M3 mediums before, so it will be interesting to compare it to the MiniArt versions I have built. It’s already clear that Takom’s kits are less complex, especially the tracks: link-and-length instead of separate-link with four parts per link :smiling3:

Instructions can be found on Scalemates, so I’m not going to post them here.
 
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tr1ckey66

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Really interesting vehicle Jakko and thank you for the background info. I can imagine in the desert campaign that the use of such tanks was really quite necessary. In the middle of the desert with no other source of light apart from the stars, advancing through minefields would be an extremely difficult task. I watch with interest.

On a different but connected topic, you say you’ve built the Miniart Lee/Grant. I’m looking into my options for building a Kangaroo APC (Ram Tank derivative), The Bronco Ram tank is an obvious donor vehicle but comes with no interior. I understand that the Miniart M3 has an interior and I was wondering about its suitability for this project. What do you think? I realise that a lot of details will need to be scratched but some of the major bits will be there - transmission etc. If you have any other suggestions then I’m all ears.

Looking forward to the build
Cheers, P
 

Jakko

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(it's just crying out for a bit of electrical jiggery pokery to actually light the searchlight..)
I have been thinking of that ever since I bought the kit last year. Problem is getting the necessary parts, though: either the parts are very cheap with almost extortionate postage, or I can’t find what I need in web shops that have reasonable postage rates … This is not helped by me wanting to have the light’s strength as close to scale as possible, and if I can manage it, also give the choice of continuous or blinking, and possibly also white, red and blue … :smiling3:

I can imagine in the desert campaign that the use of such tanks was really quite necessary. In the middle of the desert with no other source of light apart from the stars, advancing through minefields would be an extremely difficult task.
The tactical deployment would have been to put the tanks ca. 100 metres apart so their beams would form a continuous illuminated zone at 300+ metres distance, but with dark triangular areas between the tanks in which friendly forces could advance undetected by the enemy. However, apparently when this was tried in exercises, the infantrymen felt very exposed (probably because it feels like you’re being illuminated, even though the enemy can‘t actually see you due to being blinded) and so were much too cautious to make full use of the concealment they had.

I’m looking into my options for building a Kangaroo APC (Ram Tank derivative), The Bronco Ram tank is an obvious donor vehicle but comes with no interior. I understand that the Miniart M3 has an interior and I was wondering about its suitability for this project.
Some of the MiniArt M3 medium kits have a complete interior, yes. However, I don’t know enough about the Ram to say how much of it will be useful, especially for the crew compartment. I suppose the whole engine compartment can be used more or less as-is, and also the transmission and drive shaft tunnel, but other than that, I have no real idea. Certainly the whole driver’s position will be different, because in the M3 medium tank the driver sits on top of the transmission, while in the Ram he sits to the right of it.

Also: you do know the Bronco Ram’s hull is 2 mm too wide, right? This would make fitting MiniArt interior parts difficult. I think the way I would tackle it would be to graft the Bronco upper hull onto the MiniArt M3’s lower hull (with Bronco suspension bogies, as the Canadian ones are quite distinctive). I’ve got a Bronco Ram in the stash too, and have been thinking of buying a MiniArt or Takom M3 kit for the lower hull in this manner, though without adding an interior.
 

tr1ckey66

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Also: you do know the Bronco Ram’s hull is 2 mm too wide, right? This would make fitting MiniArt interior parts difficult. I think the way I would tackle it would be to graft the Bronco upper hull onto the MiniArt M3’s lower hull (with Bronco suspension bogies, as the Canadian ones are quite distinctive). I’ve got a Bronco Ram in the stash too, and have been thinking of buying a MiniArt or Takom M3 kit for the lower hull in this manner, though without adding an interior.
That seems a viable option (marrying the Bronco Ram upper hull to the MiniArt lower). With regards to the bogies I’m going to need the later style with straight arms for the return rollers so I wont be using the M3 or the Ram tank bogies. I’m beginning to wonder if an M4 lower hull would be an easier route. And I‘ve just realised I have a Resicast M4A1 ARV conversion that has an interior. I could copy some of the parts from that (transmission etc) and use a Tasca/Asuka lower hull. The task will still require plenty of research and scratch building but that could be a start. Anyhoo, thank you for the reply and the info on the too wide Ram hull (I wasn’t aware of that) and I apologise for the tangent on your topic. The reason(s) I mentioned it was: a. It was related to the M3 topic, and b. I value your knowledge on armour and kits (The fact you have the Ram kit is proof of this!!!)

NB. I’ve just seen that RFM have released an M4A3 with interior. I wonder if that is the first in a whole line of M4s with interiors?

Back on topic: Chris above is right, putting an LED in the CDL Grant would be awesome. Buy the LEDs/electronics in bulk (it isn’t worth it otherwise). Once you start lighting things, you start looking at a whole host of other kits with more possibilities. Again, Im looking forward to the build of this unusual armoured vehicle.
 

Jakko

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That seems a viable option (marrying the Bronco Ram upper hull to the MiniArt lower).
The Bronco upper hull has the right overall width, though the nose is too wide because it is made to fit the lower hull, of course. It also needs other corrections to its shape (too bad he never got round to showing how to fix the turret, though that’s not relevant to your intended model, of course).

I’m beginning to wonder if an M4 lower hull would be an easier route.
The Ram is an M3 derivative, and the M4 lower hull differs enough in detail that especially the rear plate probably wouldn’t be accurate. But at the same time, using a MiniArt M3 lower hull plus, say, Asuka heavy-duty bogies almost feels like a waste of the MiniArt kit … OTOH, you’ll have medium-duty bogies in the spares box, so that’s a win :smiling3:

I apologise for the tangent on your topic. The reason(s) I mentioned it was: a. It was related to the M3 topic, and b. I value your knowledge on armour and kits (The fact you have the Ram kit is proof of this!!!)
:smiling3: I bought it the moment I came across it, when it was new a few years ago. However, reading about the corrections it “needs” has put me off starting it so far.

NB. I’ve just seen that RFM have released an M4A3 with interior. I wonder if that is the first in a whole line of M4s with interiors?
Maybe, but almost nothing of that kit’s interior will be useful for even an early Sherman, let alone an M3 or a Ram :sad: The RFM kit is a 76 mm tank, right? That means it has the late interior with wet ammo stowage on the floor.

Back on topic: Chris above is right, putting an LED in the CDL Grant would be awesome. Buy the LEDs/electronics in bulk (it isn’t worth it otherwise). Once you start lighting things, you start looking at a whole host of other kits with more possibilities.
I kind of doubt it … I’ve put lights into a Warhammer 40,000 Land Raider, and never really felt the need to afterwards :smiling3:

Now, on to what I actually did on this CDL model so far …

I started by adding the final drive assembly to the hull front, and it’s much too smooth. This is slightly odd, because some parts do have a very nice cast texture, but not this — except for the sides of the half-moon pieces. So I put a thin layer of putty over it all, softened it with liquid cement (both in small areas at a time) and stippled it with a hard brush:

6D777717-45BF-41BE-B066-715EDD3C8E99.jpeg

Once this is fully hard, I will sand it down to reduce the texture again, because like this it’s too much. I found that stippling and then sanding gives a much more realistic finish than just stippling.

For the suspension, Takom gives a couple of options but only tells you to use specific parts. First, the lever arms:

B742EAA7-4A4C-4A45-A685-8F7BAA966975.jpeg

Photos of Grants (not just CDL versions) almost invariably show the plain ones, which is also what Takom tells you to use. For the outside of the bogies, you get these two:

1DBC958A-F890-48F8-8E66-4C034F43964D.jpeg

And they say to use the one on the left, with the horizontal bars. However, Grants in photos almost never seem to have had those — American M3 mediums do, though. So, I used the other ones:

0D3DDA29-4BB2-4F1B-9526-F03C032E0074.jpeg

These are not complete yet: the roadwheel arms and the wheels themselves still need to be fitted.

They’re slightly tricky to build, and you should take care not to get glue on the lever arms because they will need to remain movable to properly position everything once the roadwheel arms go in.

By the way, here’s how you do it in 1:1 :smiling3:

 

therapy

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This will be good practice for whenyou start that M31 Jakko!

Watching along......

Nick
 

Jakko

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Don’t know about a masterclass, the model looks good enough that it doesn’t need any real corrections or major details added/rebuilt — which is why I picked it :smiling3: But yes, better to start with this one than with the M31 that has a lot more stuff to it.
 

Jakko

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After the putty had dried, I sanded it down a little and then added the “ears” and the side plates:

01626765-C643-47FD-977B-D7FD771A7DC5.jpeg

This all fits pretty tight, so make sure to clean dried putty out of the holes for the ears first. Also, I found it’s a lot easier to glue the side plates A11 to the ears D13 and D14 first, and only then glue the assemblies to the hull.

On with the suspension, you need to glue a bolt to the wheel arms:

6720A849-DB4E-4654-9012-040A3DD6BE7C.jpeg

No location points are provided, only a drawing in the instructions showing where to put them. What they don’t tell you is that it’s not too hard to figure out the right spot, because it should line up with the rod moulded to the inside of the arm.

There are two alternatives. One is to cut the rod away and leave the bolt off too. The other is to also cut the rod off, but then drill a hole through the arm where it used to be. Photos of real Grants show all of these, but with bolts seems to have been most common. Yet another option is to replace the bogies entirely by the heavy-duty type with the return roller behind the bogie rather than on top of it, as was fitted to most Shermans.

Then all that remained was putting the arm parts together with the wheels and clicking those into the bogies:

97155F76-FF0C-40C5-9A37-F25020E6AB25.jpeg

Don’t glue them yet, because like this you can glue the bogies to the hull later on and then line everything out nicely by setting the model on a flat surface, at which point you can flow glue into the joints to fix the suspension.

Though with the parts loose like this, the suspension “works”, you can’t really adapt it to rough terrain in a diorama this way, however. This because the only movement now is like a seesaw: move one wheel up and the other goes down. If you want both wheels sprung, you need to file down the top of springs A31 so it can sit higher inside the bogie. (If you do this, you will also need to buy a set of replacement tracks, because the link-and-length track in the kit doesn’t lend itself to this, of course.)
 

JR

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I'll follow please , always a good introduction.
 

adt70hk

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Joining the rabble on this one Jakko!
 

Jim R

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Good progress Jakko. One or two little things to figure out but nothing to worry about.
 

Jakko

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Like many recent Sherman and Lee/Grant kits (and the aforementioned Bronco Ram), Takom supplies separate edges to the rims of the idler wheels, because these were undercut on the real tank:

632BBA1F-0C0C-4162-A6CF-0B3B26A4C4C0.jpeg

Unlike most of those kits, they’re in plastic here rather than etched brass. I think I prefer this, because if you managed to bend it, a plastic ring is easier to straighten out than an etched one. On the other hand, the rings leave a definite gap on this kit, which I didn’t see on the MiniArt M3 or RFM Sherman kits with their etched rings. Of course, it still needs to be filled.

I also put together the main parts of the upper hull:

8B10864E-F3D2-414D-9DB8-E16DA4A5C698.jpeg

Takom would have you fit the two large side plates, next attach stuff to the roof, and only then return to the hull to attach the other pieces. I think this is a recipe for not getting things straight, so I started at the left rear corner of the hull and worked clockwise around it to the right rear, skipping only the curved bit at the right front that the 75 mm gun will go through — that, I added once the right hull side was in place. This piece doesn’t really fit that well: you can get either the right or left side to fit nicely, but not both, without glue. In the end, the solution was to just glue all three sides (left, right and under) and manipulate it into place before it sets too hard.

Then, before the glue on all these bits sets, I put on the roof, without glue, and pushed and pulled everything so it all meets up correctly.
 

Mini Me

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Just caught up to this Jakko.......I'll take a back seat and watch for Matron. Looking good so far. ;)
 
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