Hasegawa 1/32 Junkers JU87D STUKA

Vaughan

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Thanks for that Trey. I find it takes a hell of a lot of concentration cutting and lining up the masking tape, it take literally hours to do but I think it's come out well in the end.

Vaughan
 

mossiepilot

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Well done on the masking vaughan, and the Stuka is coming along nicely.

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Vaughan

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No progress at the moment as air compressor is playing up and waiting on the supplier to decide if it's reparable or needs to be replaced:sad:.

Vaughan
 

colin m

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Looking good Vaughan. The stuka certainly has some distinctive looks, very purposeful looks. I like it.

Colin M..
 

Vaughan

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Getting a bit bored with waiting for some feed back re the compressor so have applied some decals to the bomb and wheel spats. The fuselage nose has been re-masked as I realised that the splinter pattern is incorrect and will be sprayed as soon as I can. I also bought some pipe insulation foam to protect the Stuka once the spraying is under way.

Vaughan.

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V

Vajled

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great idea with these pipe insulation protection...

must do something like that and again steal one plastic cup from my wife :P

she will hang me, hehehhehee

great work Vaughan, I'm following your Stuka and enjoying

Roman
 
T

tecdes

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Hey Vaughan that pipe insulation is a great idea. 11 out of 10 for that. I use sponge pieces but your pipe insulation with the plastic tube keeps everything in place. Like it will copy hope you have not patented it yet.

Also like your latest pieces the paintwork. What finish have you got there looks like a gloss ?

Laurie
 

Vaughan

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Actually guys that wasn't my idea with the foam I saw it on another forum and I never got round to buying some. Got mine from B&Q only 79p for a 4' length.

Laurie the gloss is in fact just Klear to stop the silvering of the decals and I applied it with a brush. I will follow up with a flat coat.

Vaughan
 
V

Vajled

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Vaughan... can I post your picture of insulation sponge on my site like good tip?

I will put your picture on my site DB because to autoresize on 1024 px width...

and will put link on your work here and you in signature of picture and idea :smiling3:

Is that ok?

Roman
 

Vaughan

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Yeah Roman that's fine.

Vaughan.
 

Vaughan

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Roman send me a link when you've done it.

Vaughan
 
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Vajled

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just start to do that :smiling3:

http://vajled.com/wsm/index.php?topic=2447.0
 

Vaughan

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Looks great Roman I'm glad that it will be useful to other modellers.

Vaughan.
 
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Vaughan

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Still no news on the air compressor. I thought I'd give it a go with some pre-shading and use my Iwata BR had the needle cap off as the brush kept clogging, I think it's down to the compressor it seems to be pulsing, and managed to drop it needle first onto my cutting mat. Result one bent needle:emo10:. Will now need to order a needle and nozzle from John. Managed to finish off the pre-shading with my CR with similar clogging problems. Anyway here's some photos. Looks like I'm going to have to wait for the compressor to be sorted out before I can continue.:emo10:

Vaughan

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Vaughan

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Well I've managed to progress with some of the airbrushing despite the faulty compressor. Basically I allow the compressor to fill the tank and then when it starts to cough and splutter I switch it off this gives me about a minute spraying time before the pressure goes too low and I have to switch it back on again. From hearing the problems that people have had with masking the Aerilons once in situ I have decided to paint them and their actuators first and fit them at the end of the build. Hopefully this will work out ok. I have also corrected the splinter camo on the fuselage nose. Two sections of the canopy are now in situ and have been sprayed with a base coat of RLM66.

Vaughan

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Vaughan

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The underside of the fuselage has been sprayed in RLM 65 and I have managed to mask off the fuselage band having sprayed it white first. Thanks laurie for the advice I managed to get away with using thin Tamiya tape. I've had a bit of an issue with the plastic weld that I have been using. On the trailing edge of the wing a gap has opened up so I have had to reapply hence the bead of plastic. This will need to trimmed with a sharp knife. Don't know if this is down to my technique when applying or as some people have commented that plastic weld does tend to evaporate faster than say Tamiya extra thin or Mr Cement S. On a side note does anyone find that these types of glue tend to make your nose feel like it has inhaled menthol or something similar?. I'm using it in a well ventilated room and can smell no odour coming from the bottle but still get this sensation in my nose which lasts for quite along time.

Vaughan

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