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dm73
Guest
Cheers John for the link, loads of lovely stuff on there. Credit card has been found and a couple shiney trinkets are on their way as we speak
S
Sky Raider
Guest
Wow. Thanks John, another £200 spent. ill have no money for Christmas at this rate lol. Thanks for giving me such a fantastic site, it is out of this world, everything you need and more.
Thanks again
Andy
Thanks again
Andy
Centurion3RTR
Fossil Raver
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Oh no!! Looks like i'm going to be in trouble with the wife's, it is a great site though. I'm thinking of making mine a mid or late Tiger with the stuff on there, i fancy Zimmerit.
Have fun, John
Have fun, John
D
dm73
Guest
Morning all, a little update on the Tiger 1 project, have received a couple packages from welsh dragons, decided to purchase opening metal hatches, these look much better than the moulded in parts and give access to the gearboxes for lubrication.
Next to arrive was a metal tool kit, spare track links for the turret,bucket and a damaged helmet, these will all go on once the initial paint job has been completed.
After looking at the metal extra links i've decided to splash out after xmas on a full set and sprockets but don't let the missus know.
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Cheers all
Darren
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Next to arrive was a metal tool kit, spare track links for the turret,bucket and a damaged helmet, these will all go on once the initial paint job has been completed.
After looking at the metal extra links i've decided to splash out after xmas on a full set and sprockets but don't let the missus know.
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Cheers all
Darren
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Bunkerbarge
Guest
Huge improvement already, noit only practical but after painting they will look a lot better as well. Nice to see a bit of plastic butchery going on, it's great fun to cut big bits off a model.
S
Sky Raider
Guest
Looking good so far, i havent took mine out of the Brown box it came in yet. I have decided to sart with the tank crew i purchased. Im still waiting for Amazon to dispatch my new books and DVD on figure painting before i attempt to use any pain. Im working on filling and sanding at the moment.
Keep up the good work so that i can follow your examples.
Andy
Keep up the good work so that i can follow your examples.
Andy
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dm73
Guest
Just looked at your thread on the figures Andy, lovely looking bits of kit, can't wait to see them painted up. Have you bought metal tracks and sprockets for either of your tanks?
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Bunkerbarge
Guest
Of all the upgrade possibilities, and there are plenty, the one thing that makes the tank look so much more realistic is the metal tracks. It sits better, goes over obstacles more realistically and the tracks sit on the road wheels better. It does slow it down a bit as the weight increase is quite significant as well.
S
Sky Raider
Guest
Darren, i brought about every extra you can get for this tank, havent looked at tracks yet, think i will change them soon, well before i start on the project. I am pleased with the figures just hope i can do a good paint job. Went into three models shops today and couldnt get any Tamiya Rattle Can Primer anywhere, i wonder if John sells it. Rich, adding these tracks adds weight you say, does this load the motors at all?.
Andy
Andy
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Bunkerbarge
Guest
The motors are not really the issue it's the gearboxes that feel the strain, hence the recomendation to fit the metal gear boxes at the same time! Mind you there are motors available as well.
D
dm73
Guest
Andy, i just use Halfords white primer, just a light coating to give the next coat something to stick to. I've seen replacement gearboxes with metal gears, brass i think, do you think this is because the plastic gears will strip under the extra start loading on the heavier tracks, haven't seen any uprated motors so i can't see them being a problem.
S
Sky Raider
Guest
Darren,
i personaly think that the gear box might be required. Being a biker i can refer to the cush drive in the rear wheel hub. This allows a sort of elasticity for the drive sprocket, it takes stress and strain from the chain drive sprocket. If the gear box doesnt have the safety cushion of the elasticity of the rubber tracks then the next softest material will definatly take up the tare, this would be the nylon drive cogs. Only my opinion, if anyone has another answer then please correct me.
Andy
i personaly think that the gear box might be required. Being a biker i can refer to the cush drive in the rear wheel hub. This allows a sort of elasticity for the drive sprocket, it takes stress and strain from the chain drive sprocket. If the gear box doesnt have the safety cushion of the elasticity of the rubber tracks then the next softest material will definatly take up the tare, this would be the nylon drive cogs. Only my opinion, if anyone has another answer then please correct me.
Andy
D
dm73
Guest
Morning all, a bit of an update on the Tiger as i had a couple hours spare in the shed last night.
First thing i tackled was all the road wheels had to come off for painting and weathering, this involved undoing an allen bolt in the centre of each wheel, when they are undone you'll hear the suspension arm clunk as it releases.
The idler wheel has a small enclosed philips screw that has to be undone through the small hole in the middle, be careful not to lose the small washer between wheel and hub.
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Once these were off i rubbed then down ready for an undercoat and also attacked the rubber part with a file to give them a worn look.
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While these and the turret undercoat dried i attempted to scratch a better box for the front near the gunners hatch. I used coffee stirrer sticks as the box body and plasticard for the steel straps. The belt and buckle are made from masking tape doubled over and a piece of copper wire for the buckle.
I also made the locating lugs on the hull with plasticard strips. These need filling and tidying before painting.
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While i was working on the hull i also added electrical conduit to the headlights, these need a couple of brackets when i get my hands on some thing ally or brass.
Also gave the exhaust shields a bit of a going over with a hot flame and the handle my craft knife to give them a bit of a battered look.
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Replaced one of the track skirts with a piece of stainless sheet and gave it the just shot with a cannon look, also moved the receiver ariel to its correct location and scratched a tow rope using the original ends.
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Thats all for now until i can dig myself a path through the snow to the shed.
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First thing i tackled was all the road wheels had to come off for painting and weathering, this involved undoing an allen bolt in the centre of each wheel, when they are undone you'll hear the suspension arm clunk as it releases.
The idler wheel has a small enclosed philips screw that has to be undone through the small hole in the middle, be careful not to lose the small washer between wheel and hub.
View attachment 22965View attachment 22962View attachment 22960
Once these were off i rubbed then down ready for an undercoat and also attacked the rubber part with a file to give them a worn look.
View attachment 22967View attachment 22961
While these and the turret undercoat dried i attempted to scratch a better box for the front near the gunners hatch. I used coffee stirrer sticks as the box body and plasticard for the steel straps. The belt and buckle are made from masking tape doubled over and a piece of copper wire for the buckle.
I also made the locating lugs on the hull with plasticard strips. These need filling and tidying before painting.
View attachment 22958View attachment 22968View attachment 22963
While i was working on the hull i also added electrical conduit to the headlights, these need a couple of brackets when i get my hands on some thing ally or brass.
Also gave the exhaust shields a bit of a going over with a hot flame and the handle my craft knife to give them a bit of a battered look.
View attachment 22969View attachment 22964
Replaced one of the track skirts with a piece of stainless sheet and gave it the just shot with a cannon look, also moved the receiver ariel to its correct location and scratched a tow rope using the original ends.
View attachment 22968View attachment 22959View attachment 22970
Thats all for now until i can dig myself a path through the snow to the shed.
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Bunkerbarge
Guest
This is looking really good. The wooden block for the jack is a huge improvement over the original and the towing wire looks much better as well. I also like the damaged track guard and the dents in the exhaust covers.
This is going to look the part and be a superb RC model when you've finished.
This is going to look the part and be a superb RC model when you've finished.
S
Sky Raider
Guest
Fantastic work Darren. I cant wait to get started on mine, still painting the tank crew at the moment. Keep them coming.
Andy
Andy
D
dm73
Guest
Morning all, happy new year.
Was lucky enough to get a bit of time in the shack over the last couple of evenings so i thought i'd bite the bullet and start the camo scheme on the big cat.
I first gave it a couple coats of Tamiya xf60 as a base and left over night to cure, while this was curing i put a gloss coat on the wheels.
View attachment 23407
Once the base coat had cured fully it was time for the camo scheme, after trawling through picture after picture i decided on this one.
i used vallejo air camo green and using my .3 airbrush did it freehand as i wanted a feathered effect on the edges.
View attachment 23410
As this was drying i had varnished the bottom half of the hull and gave it a pro modeller dark dirt wash and while this was wet i liberally applied dark dirt pigment to give it a dried mud look, i didn't want large lumps as it may be used indoors on swmbo's carpets.
The same was done to the road wheels, idlers and drive sprockets.
View attachment 23413
The upper hull had dried after a few hours so it was treated to a coat of gloss varnish and left over night to cure properly.
The hull and turret where bolted back together and the wiring for the turret that i cut at the beginning of the project was soldered back together.
These were given the wash and pigment treatment but i only applied the pigment on the trackskirts to indicate dirt and mud.
Once all had dried i went over everything with a stiff brush to tone down the weathering by removing unwanted pigment and wash.
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The flag was made from an old metal pva glue tube that was cleaned and flattened out then masked and sprayed.
At the rear of the hull i used a little black pigment around the exhaust stacks and a little around the muzzle brake to show some use.
The commander has been started also and just needs some highlighting of the clothing then a matt varnish.
View attachment 23414
All the tools and extra bits and pieces including the plastic tracks have yet to be started and i still have to find some decals as the ones that came with the tiger are terrible stickers.
Cheers for reading, all comments welcome, good or bad
Darren
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Was lucky enough to get a bit of time in the shack over the last couple of evenings so i thought i'd bite the bullet and start the camo scheme on the big cat.
I first gave it a couple coats of Tamiya xf60 as a base and left over night to cure, while this was curing i put a gloss coat on the wheels.
View attachment 23407
Once the base coat had cured fully it was time for the camo scheme, after trawling through picture after picture i decided on this one.
i used vallejo air camo green and using my .3 airbrush did it freehand as i wanted a feathered effect on the edges.
View attachment 23410
As this was drying i had varnished the bottom half of the hull and gave it a pro modeller dark dirt wash and while this was wet i liberally applied dark dirt pigment to give it a dried mud look, i didn't want large lumps as it may be used indoors on swmbo's carpets.
The same was done to the road wheels, idlers and drive sprockets.
View attachment 23413
The upper hull had dried after a few hours so it was treated to a coat of gloss varnish and left over night to cure properly.
The hull and turret where bolted back together and the wiring for the turret that i cut at the beginning of the project was soldered back together.
These were given the wash and pigment treatment but i only applied the pigment on the trackskirts to indicate dirt and mud.
Once all had dried i went over everything with a stiff brush to tone down the weathering by removing unwanted pigment and wash.
View attachment 23408
View attachment 23409
View attachment 23411
View attachment 23412
The flag was made from an old metal pva glue tube that was cleaned and flattened out then masked and sprayed.
At the rear of the hull i used a little black pigment around the exhaust stacks and a little around the muzzle brake to show some use.
The commander has been started also and just needs some highlighting of the clothing then a matt varnish.
View attachment 23414
All the tools and extra bits and pieces including the plastic tracks have yet to be started and i still have to find some decals as the ones that came with the tiger are terrible stickers.
Cheers for reading, all comments welcome, good or bad
Darren
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Bunkerbarge
Guest
Looking very good Darren. I like the camoflage paint job, very even and consistent, and the foundation for the weathering looks superb. Is it possible to get more folds and creases into the flag? To get a scale look it would probably be very tatty and have a lot of folds in it, something along the lines of this canvas cover:
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dm73
Guest
Cheers for the input Richard, the flag isn't fixed yet so can try and get the weathered look, i think the metal may be a bit stiff for lots of folds but i'll try. If it doesn't work i might have a go at making a material one but unsure how to do it yet. To tell you the truth i wasn't sure about using it a all, where they only displayed when photos where taken or as identification for when operations included an air assault?
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
Darren, I use a sticky backed foil tape that is used in the HVAC industry but even cooking foil or wine bottle lead foil is worth considering. Foil works very well as it holds it's shape after you have positioned it and allows you to get a very realistic shape and look to it.
The trouble with material is getting it to look scale and it would require a very fine weave to be credible. Another possibility is thick paper, which can be manipulated well after it has been moistened slightly.
As far as I know the flags were used for recognition in combat areas so the would not be fitted all the time. They can look superb though if done carefully and really enhance the model.
The trouble with material is getting it to look scale and it would require a very fine weave to be credible. Another possibility is thick paper, which can be manipulated well after it has been moistened slightly.
As far as I know the flags were used for recognition in combat areas so the would not be fitted all the time. They can look superb though if done carefully and really enhance the model.
Great looking RC Tiger Darren!
You've done a great job so far on making this tank a lot more realistic. Early this year I'm going to start my Tamiya Tiger 1 conversion to the late type. Perhaps when it's finished we could demonstrate our 1/16 tank Abteilung together!
Keep up the great work I'm looking forward to seeing this finished.
All the best
Paul
You've done a great job so far on making this tank a lot more realistic. Early this year I'm going to start my Tamiya Tiger 1 conversion to the late type. Perhaps when it's finished we could demonstrate our 1/16 tank Abteilung together!
Keep up the great work I'm looking forward to seeing this finished.
All the best
Paul