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New to photo etched parts
- Thread starter shaun platts
- Start date
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dougie
Guest
I have used them once so maybe my opinion is slightly valid to another first timer 
They are fiddly as hell - get a nice big clean and monotoned work spot.
They are lethal apparently, do not let the carpet monster get them. He will spit them back into your appendages. Ouch.
Get a PE tool. I have one, I didn't use one for my first PE work as I didn't have it then. It will make things a lot less frustrating and more fun.
Take your time, its worth it in the end but it doesn't come easy.
Also maybe some metal etch primer, some magnifying head gear.
Hope this is of some use.
They are fiddly as hell - get a nice big clean and monotoned work spot.
They are lethal apparently, do not let the carpet monster get them. He will spit them back into your appendages. Ouch.
Get a PE tool. I have one, I didn't use one for my first PE work as I didn't have it then. It will make things a lot less frustrating and more fun.
Take your time, its worth it in the end but it doesn't come easy.
Also maybe some metal etch primer, some magnifying head gear.
Hope this is of some use.
D
dougie
Guest
Oh and welcome to a mega friendly forum. It will be a good stay I hope\ said:
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Thanks for your replies. Thanks for your tips. What about glue? Have looked through some of the forums and found some good general advice.
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dougie
Guest
I am afraid I did seatbelts and just used a touch of cyano. There will be lots of guys on here that can help, I'm guessing they haven't spotted the thread yet as normally by now there would be a few good replies!
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- Gregg
It can depend on what & where your using it.
I use both Cyano (gell) and white PVA.
Don't use Cyano near clear/transparencies, unless you want a foggy finish.
And as above welcome to the forum, lots of help & tips on here.
Gregg
I use both Cyano (gell) and white PVA.
Don't use Cyano near clear/transparencies, unless you want a foggy finish.
And as above welcome to the forum, lots of help & tips on here.
Gregg
Paul Davies
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A good pair of tweezers are essential. If any parts need to be bent a photo etch bending tool is a good investment. Also if you struggle to see the parts with your naked eye you probably wont ever see them on the model so some people would not bother with the really small bits.
Hi Shaun, welcome aboard. Found this out for you:
There is a Part 2 as well.
There is a Part 2 as well.
Get yourself some small flat faced pliers, they're indispensable for bending small parts and are less cumbersome that most PE tools.
Like most things practice makes perfect but it's not really that difficult. A magnifier may also be useful for really small parts. As you get more used to photo etch you'll find out that some parts require soldering together for strong bonds.
You should be ok with just CA glue, the pliers would be useful as will some good fine tweezers.
I hope this helps.
Cheers
Paul
Like most things practice makes perfect but it's not really that difficult. A magnifier may also be useful for really small parts. As you get more used to photo etch you'll find out that some parts require soldering together for strong bonds.
You should be ok with just CA glue, the pliers would be useful as will some good fine tweezers.
I hope this helps.
Cheers
Paul
stona
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I bend and fold using a good pair of tweezers and the straight edge of a Stanley blade. I stick the stuff with some CA glue (super glue) and accelerator. This gives an almost instant bond so you have to get the part in the right place first time!. If you need some wiggle room then white glue may work for you. I use Gator's Grip, but I think it's now out of production.
Most photo etch is quite fiddly and although it can certainly add some superb detail to a model it isn't always any better than the plastic part it may be replacing
Cheers
Steve
Most photo etch is quite fiddly and although it can certainly add some superb detail to a model it isn't always any better than the plastic part it may be replacing
Cheers
Steve
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dubster72
Guest
All the above is excellent advice - I would add to use a sharp blade & a hard surface when cutting the parts. A ceramic tile is ideal. This prevents the PE from bending or distorting when cutting.
A strip of masking tape under the part helps stop it pinging off into the jaws of the carpet monster!
A strip of masking tape under the part helps stop it pinging off into the jaws of the carpet monster!
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Wow. A much bigger response than I expected. Thanks a lot guys. Will take all of your advice on board.
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dougie
Guest
Told you! This is an excellent forum for help. You just have to get them out of their worn out armchairs!\ said:
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Laurie
Guest
Shaun I use a CD to cut PE on with a Morton Blade knife. Use a magnifier to make sure the cut is perfectly on the line.
For sticking I use CA. Best not to flood as it will take an age to go off. Just a smigin will do.
To place in position, which I have found the most difficult, is to use these http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/micro-sticky-stix-16-pack-flex-i-file.html
Also found not to religiously use every bit of PE. About 50% I have found (1/48) not to be as good as the original plastic detail. IE be a bit circumspect about PE and which bit improves the model.
Eduard who produce most PE have a Zoom range. Just come across it. This is a much lesser amount of PE than the full pack.
As far as tools are concerned it really depends on how into PE you are. My 50% token use is catered for by PE long nose pliers which I use for bending. Remembering I produce 1/48 scale. I have bending tools etc but not used them in any great degree.
Laurie
PS welcome to the forum Shaun. Nothing to do with Nick Park's Shaun the Sheep ?
For sticking I use CA. Best not to flood as it will take an age to go off. Just a smigin will do.
To place in position, which I have found the most difficult, is to use these http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/micro-sticky-stix-16-pack-flex-i-file.html
Also found not to religiously use every bit of PE. About 50% I have found (1/48) not to be as good as the original plastic detail. IE be a bit circumspect about PE and which bit improves the model.
Eduard who produce most PE have a Zoom range. Just come across it. This is a much lesser amount of PE than the full pack.
As far as tools are concerned it really depends on how into PE you are. My 50% token use is catered for by PE long nose pliers which I use for bending. Remembering I produce 1/48 scale. I have bending tools etc but not used them in any great degree.
Laurie
PS welcome to the forum Shaun. Nothing to do with Nick Park's Shaun the Sheep ?
S
steve scan
Guest
I use a Swann Morton handle with a curved blade to remove the pieces resting on a ceramic tile, let the rocking motion with a little pressure do the cutting, clean off burrs gently with a needle file good quality flat pliers and tweezers are desirable and I have a small and large bending tool, use cyano. for items that will have some force or pressure on them and white PVA for any other parts,
Just to add to all the good advice about, I stick the PE fret to some 'upside down' masking tape. The when you cut the part you want off, it will stick to the tape and not fly off somewhere.
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They look really useful. Thanks for the great reply. Unsurprisingly I was Shaun the Sheep all the way through school\ said:Shaun I use a CD to cut PE on with a Morton Blade knife. Use a magnifier to make sure the cut is perfectly on the line.
For sticking I use CA. Best not to flood as it will take an age to go off. Just a smigin will do.
To place in position, which I have found the most difficult, is to use these http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/micro-sticky-stix-16-pack-flex-i-file.html
Also found not to religiously use every bit of PE. About 50% I have found (1/48) not to be as good as the original plastic detail. IE be a bit circumspect about PE and which bit improves the model.
Eduard who produce most PE have a Zoom range. Just come across it. This is a much lesser amount of PE than the full pack.
As far as tools are concerned it really depends on how into PE you are. My 50% token use is catered for by PE long nose pliers which I use for bending. Remembering I produce 1/48 scale. I have bending tools etc but not used them in any great degree.
Laurie
PS welcome to the forum Shaun. Nothing to do with Nick Park's Shaun the Sheep ?
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Thanks everybody. I am excited about giving PE a go.
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- Marc
Welcome to our forum. This is the friendliest forum on the planet.
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demon
Guest
Hi Shaun welcome to the forum great bunch of people hear very helpful I use pe all the time it is very fragile but don't be scared in my opinion it is best put on before painting if you don't brush paint and I put it on with cyano thin usually if it's a large ish flat bit you can roughen the back with some 800sand paper I do have a set for the tamiya keep made by aber and it does look very fidly maybe not the best set if you have not used pe before another thing is don't feel you have to use everything on the sheet this set in particular gets everything even battery terminal wingnuts anyway welcome aboard all the best for now
Roger
Roger