Poly cement recommendations

MrGotty

SMF Poster
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Messages
183
Likes
35
Points
28
Location
Barton Upon Humber
First Name
Scott
#1
Im using Mr Cement atm but it doesnt seem to be doing the job. Im not sure if its because I primed my parts first or maybe because my mr cement leaked all over my box and dried up. Managed to salvage some but maybe its lost its integrity. Any thoughts and suggestions?
 

Jens Andrée

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2017
Messages
867
Likes
486
Points
63
Location
Skåne, Sweden
First Name
Jens
#2
Tamiya extra thin is the only cement I'm using and it has no problem with acrylic primed/painted parts. It's the best brand I've tried.

These cements are more or less just MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), also known as butanone. In some countries you can buy this in large bottles which is much cheaper than packaged by the modelling companies ;)
 

BarryW

SMF Poster
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
2,166
Likes
999
Points
113
First Name
Barry
#3
Can you confirm which Mr Cement, as there are more than one product that use this branding?

I use Mr Cement S, the one very like the Tamiya Extra Thin, but better. I really dont think you can get better for cementing, using capillary action. It is by far the best on the market and I recommend this. It is faster drying than the Tammy version and in a test Phil Flory found it has better 'penetration'. Also any surplus evaporates quicker from the surface compared to Tammy.

I also use Mr Cement DeLux, because it has a longer drying time and instead of using capillary action it is applied to the joining edge. In my view this does not give as good a 'bind' as Mr Cement S and I only use it now and then when a slower drying cement is called for and, even then, once a part is in place I apply a drop if the Mr S Cement to the join. But it certainly is a good option used the way I describe.

There is also Mr Cement Limolene and just plain old Mr Cement neither of which I use.

Overall it is the Mr Cement S that is the best you can get for general purpose jobs.
 
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
1,610
Likes
725
Points
113
First Name
John
#4
Can you confirm which Mr Cement, as there are more than one product that use this branding?

I use Mr Cement S, the one very like the Tamiya Extra Thin, but better. I really dont think you can get better for cementing, using capillary action. It is by far the best on the market and I recommend this. It is faster drying than the Tammy version and in a test Phil Flory found it has better 'penetration'. Also any surplus evaporates quicker from the surface compared to Tammy.

I also use Mr Cement DeLux, because it has a longer drying time and instead of using capillary action it is applied to the joining edge. In my view this does not give as good a 'bind' as Mr Cement S and I only use it now and then when a slower drying cement is called for and, even then, once a part is in place I apply a drop if the Mr S Cement to the join. But it certainly is a good option used the way I describe.

There is also Mr Cement Limolene and just plain old Mr Cement neither of which I use.

Overall it is the Mr Cement S that is the best you can get for general purpose jobs.
I've just ordered some of this stuff from John, that Kittyhawk Voodoo doesn't like Tamiya Extra Thin cement, and yes, I have washed everything! Another unforseen problem with this kit - the chances of finishing this are not good. Grrrrr.
 

BarryW

SMF Poster
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
2,166
Likes
999
Points
113
First Name
Barry
#6
I think I just have plane old mr cement.
Then I would suggest getting Mr Cement S. Using this kind of very thin cement is very different to the thicker kind such as the basic Mr Cement. You need to join pieces and apply cement to the join with a brush (there is one in the jar). Dont overdo it. Any surplus on the surface just evaporates quite quickly while the cement is drawn into the join with capillary action, melting the plastic parts together. You can clamp parts together or, for parts such as fuselage sides, hold them together with strips of masking tape. Dont apply the cement too close to the tape as it will wick under the tape, just tack the part together at various points between the tape with the cement. Once dry and it does dry and hold quickly, one of its good points, you remove the tape then run a brush of cement along the join to seal it and get a good join ready for sanding.

It does not work well if you try applying to a part first to then mate it due to its short drying (evaporation) time. So for odd jobs where you need a slow drying cement another product is useful. Once you get the hang of using these ultra thin cements like Mr Cement S then you will not want to use anything else.
 

Gern

'Stashitis' victim
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
4,886
Likes
1,378
Points
113
Location
Stourbridge
First Name
Dave
#7
So for odd jobs where you need a slow drying cement another product is useful. Once you get the hang of using these ultra thin cements like Mr Cement S then you will not want to use anything else.
Gotta agree with Barry's ideas on the different uses. I use either Tamiya Extra Thin or Cement S as my "go to" adhesive (I can't say I've noticed a significant difference between them on the limited number of kits I build) and Revell Contacta for those occasions when capillary action isn't suitable.

If you're still having trouble, scrape away your primer paint from the mating surfaces before glueing.
 

Dave W

SMF Poster
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Messages
4,006
Likes
1,493
Points
113
First Name
Dave
#8
I used Revell Contacta for years. But I'm a recent convert to Tamiya extra thin. Good stuff
 
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
1,610
Likes
725
Points
113
First Name
John
#9
Then I would suggest getting Mr Cement S. Using this kind of very thin cement is very different to the thicker kind such as the basic Mr Cement. You need to join pieces and apply cement to the join with a brush (there is one in the jar). Dont overdo it. Any surplus on the surface just evaporates quite quickly while the cement is drawn into the join with capillary action, melting the plastic parts together. You can clamp parts together or, for parts such as fuselage sides, hold them together with strips of masking tape. Dont apply the cement too close to the tape as it will wick under the tape, just tack the part together at various points between the tape with the cement. Once dry and it does dry and hold quickly, one of its good points, you remove the tape then run a brush of cement along the join to seal it and get a good join ready for sanding.

It does not work well if you try applying to a part first to then mate it due to its short drying (evaporation) time. So for odd jobs where you need a slow drying cement another product is useful. Once you get the hang of using these ultra thin cements like Mr Cement S then you will not want to use anything else.
just taken delivery of both types of Mr Cement, and, apart from the smell (eek!) heaven knows what they put in this stuff... I am seriously impressed. Thanks for the tip!
 

matto21

SMF Poster
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
100
Likes
89
Points
28
#10
I can vouch for Ammo's Extra Thin too. Just started using it and impressed so far.

Matt
 

John

Administrator
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Mar 4, 2004
Messages
3,577
Likes
412
Points
83
#11
Just to add to the Mr Cement range, I’ve just got in Mr Cement SP which is a thin quick setting glue.
 

Stevekir

Returning Beginner
Joined
Nov 4, 2012
Messages
1,745
Likes
307
Points
83
First Name
Steve
#13
I have been using Mr. Cement S for years until the bottle was nearly empty. I am now on Mr. Cement SP. I don't notice any difference. I rarely need to use Humbrol polycement, mainly when I need to fill a gap. It is slightly more viscous and comes in a tube. I think is a mixture of the solvent and colourless polystyrene.
 

Ian M

GB Mod
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Dec 14, 2008
Messages
11,572
Likes
1,897
Points
113
Location
Falster, Denmark
First Name
Ian
#14
Another Tamiya liquid user, both the regular and the extra thin. Also been using Humbrol liquid cement when the Tamiya ran out a while. That works rather well also.
For joining things that I do not want a seam line on I use the thicker Humbrol poly cement, the one in the squeezy bottle with the needle thingie. Works good and can get a good ooze going so there is something to sand back.
 
Joined
Dec 24, 2017
Messages
69
Likes
31
Points
18
First Name
Steve
#15
And another vote for Tamiya extra thin, I've been using it for quite a few months now and no problems at all, it does a great job although I find it a bit strong fume wise.

Steve.
 

baz

SMF Poster
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Messages
203
Likes
156
Points
43
#16
Hello Scott,
I have been scratch building for over twenty years and model making for more years than I care to remember my only choice for for a glue as it used to be called long ago is EMA plastic weld, I used to use liquid poly for years but the odor is very strong EMA has hardly and smell but should still be used in well ventilated room, its very quick and super strong and joins almost any form of plastic it is not the cheapest on the market but having built many large scratch builds and sold quite a number of them no one has ever said that they have dropped apart is very good indeed. one tip I pour some into a small liquid poly bottle and use it then return it to the main bottle each time I am finishing a stage and keep the top on as it evaporates away if the temp is quite warm give it a try.

regards Barrie ( the old guy )
 

Gern

'Stashitis' victim
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
4,886
Likes
1,378
Points
113
Location
Stourbridge
First Name
Dave
#17
I made up some liquid styrene by dissolving some styrene bits in liquid glue. I put it in an empty Tamiya Extra thin bottle thinking I might be able to use the brush. I used EMA as my solvent and it dissolved the brush in the bottle as well as the styrene! I'm thinking you need to be careful how much you use on small parts in case it dissolves them.
 

baz

SMF Poster
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Messages
203
Likes
156
Points
43
#18
Hello Gern.
YES its powerful stuff I use an old paint brush to apply it to my models and over the course of a big model build the brush is looking a lot worse for wear and sometimes I have to scrape of brush hairs that have come of during application. Over all though over the many years I have been building model EMA has been the best you just ahve to be a bit careful with it. good luck with your modeling,

regards Barrie ( the old guy )