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John Huggins
Guest
So Steve whats new with this one, lots of post's but no pic's 
I want pic's :mad:
John
I want pic's :mad:
John
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Stevekir
Guest
I will be posting some progress pics soon. Being new to gloss paint, I have needed to experiment. After trying Mr. Hobby Gloss Black, (easy to use being acrylic and a good shine but being a thin coat it doesn't like sanding and polishing out hairs etc. without revealing the primer); decanting Tamiya Lacquer and spraying through the airbrush (a good gloss but messy and a huge stink in the upstairs bedroom). I have settled on the Tamiya Lacquer sprayed straight from the spray can (in the garage). It is more controllable than I thought although rather over enthusiastic.
I have cleaned up and acrylic painted 7 parts ready for gluing but must wait until the main body and some of the glossy coachwork is fully gloss painted (black or green) before assembling anything on the body, which is the stage I am at now. Here is a pic after the first coat of lacquer on the bottom of the body:
View attachment 79731
I have cleaned up and acrylic painted 7 parts ready for gluing but must wait until the main body and some of the glossy coachwork is fully gloss painted (black or green) before assembling anything on the body, which is the stage I am at now. Here is a pic after the first coat of lacquer on the bottom of the body:
View attachment 79731
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Stevekir
Guest
Progress slow 'cos we have had a builder in and he needed to use the garage, so my rattle can spraying got turfed out.
Here is the top side of the body, fully gloss painted, using 2 misting coats of Tamiya black Lacquer TS14 straight from the can. But it is so fierce there is no hope of getting an even wet coat on the surfaces sticking out and those going in (concave). So I filled in using my airbrush (much more controllable) and the TS14 decanted from the can. A very wet final coat is needed to get the gloss and the TS14 did not show any tendency to run (perhaps doing the mist coats helped to build up the wet coat with less paint). I wiped all surfaces before each coat (including the primer) with a tack cloth to remove dust and hairs and immediately after each coat covered the part in an upturned box. At one stage I had to use Micromesh to remove two dust particles and a hair. I am please with the result. It is a hard shine (although gloss black is difficult to photograph).
I have gloss painted some of the green panels and after touching up with strings of black they will be assembled. Its slow work.
View attachment 80696
View attachment 80695
Here is the top side of the body, fully gloss painted, using 2 misting coats of Tamiya black Lacquer TS14 straight from the can. But it is so fierce there is no hope of getting an even wet coat on the surfaces sticking out and those going in (concave). So I filled in using my airbrush (much more controllable) and the TS14 decanted from the can. A very wet final coat is needed to get the gloss and the TS14 did not show any tendency to run (perhaps doing the mist coats helped to build up the wet coat with less paint). I wiped all surfaces before each coat (including the primer) with a tack cloth to remove dust and hairs and immediately after each coat covered the part in an upturned box. At one stage I had to use Micromesh to remove two dust particles and a hair. I am please with the result. It is a hard shine (although gloss black is difficult to photograph).
I have gloss painted some of the green panels and after touching up with strings of black they will be assembled. Its slow work.
View attachment 80696
View attachment 80695
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Willi262
Guest
I was never any good at trying to get a high gloss shine to my autobodys.
I have a BMW Z3 that I painted in metallic green and I think that's about as close as I ever got to a realistic car paint job.
Already this looks like it will be authentic...
I have a BMW Z3 that I painted in metallic green and I think that's about as close as I ever got to a realistic car paint job.
Already this looks like it will be authentic...
Looking good Steve, i think i could have fun with this one, 
drop back in for time to time to see how its coming along, :rolleyes:
why not if you can get it, before it dose get hard to find and the cost go,s up :rolleyes:
drop back in for time to time to see how its coming along, :rolleyes:
why not if you can get it, before it dose get hard to find and the cost go,s up :rolleyes:
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- Richard
Hi Steve,
I think this is going to be one heck of a build. That is some clean building you are presenting us Sir.
The paint job so far on the motor an chassis are looking perfect and for the dash I to would go for a walnut decal.
take the build slow and easy to avoid mistakes but keep the pictures coming.
Cheers Richi
I think this is going to be one heck of a build. That is some clean building you are presenting us Sir.
The paint job so far on the motor an chassis are looking perfect and for the dash I to would go for a walnut decal.
take the build slow and easy to avoid mistakes but keep the pictures coming.
Cheers Richi
J
John Huggins
Guest
Very nice finnish Steve, looking good.
John
John
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Stevekir
Guest
I noticed you comment on the doors when you posted your Roller 18 months ago. I have dry-fitted the rear curved panel and the engine bulkhead/dash unit, and the doors which of course keep falling down at this stage so I haven't yet tested the fit.\ said:Just wait till ypu'll fit the doors. I'm glad ypu liked my RR. It was fun tp build but painting it was a true trouble for me to achieve desored gloss. I'd recommend to use car paint instead of model paint
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Stevekir
Guest
I plan to print (possibly on decal paper) Internet clips of walnut veneer (reduced in scale) for the dash and the wood top to the doors. Dead right about being slow and easy. I am an expert in that, especially when having to do chores about the house (which I do, being a "new man").\ said:
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Stevekir
Guest
Thanks. Really useful. There are lots of samples there and one of a nice brown hardwood and being mirror images on all four sides they can tile a surface without showing joins.\ said:
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Laurie
Guest
Just latched onto this article of yours Steve.
I thought of you as aircraft only so this is a departure.
Like the engine with the yellow leads and the silver tops to the bolt heads.
This will give some idea on the Walnut type used.
https://www.google.com/search?q=rolls+royce+walnut+pictures&client=firefox&hs=Nmf&rls=com.yahoo:en-GB:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&imgil=9hBZTPNRn5bCmM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic
Laurie
I thought of you as aircraft only so this is a departure.
Like the engine with the yellow leads and the silver tops to the bolt heads.
This will give some idea on the Walnut type used.
https://www.google.com/search?q=rolls+royce+walnut+pictures&client=firefox&hs=Nmf&rls=com.yahoo:en-GB:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&imgil=9hBZTPNRn5bCmM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic
Laurie
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Stevekir
Guest
Thanks Laurie. Some nice wood examples there.
D
Deleted member 3568
Guest
I built the itilari kit some years ago and have to say it went together very well the only thing that was a bit disappointing was the chrome on the grill looked as though it had been sprayed on and ran, I cleaned it all off and sprayed it silver but it never looked as good as chrome. Your build looks to be coming along great.
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Stevekir
Guest
The radiator of my Revell kit has a small wrinkle on one side. Because that part is so iconic for Rolls Royce I plan to clean off the chrome paint, sand smooth and use Alclad High-Shine Chrome. Perhaps I will do the same for some of the other more prominent parts.\ said:
On the Itilari kit, but I have two more vintage cars in my stash and have decided to be content with those. But I might weaken!
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Rob1
Guest
This looks like it is going to be another "is this really a model" 
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Stevekir
Guest
I have been dry fitting again the curved rear panel, canopy and the dash/engine bulkhead. I knew they fitted before but I wanted to check the fit of the doors (bluriusz had warned that they do not fit). I taped the above three parts to keep them firmly in place as they would be after gluing but I didn't want to commit to gluing until other next door parts like the bonnet had been checked for fit. The last photo shows this.
This photo shows the problem gap at the bottom (made visible by some white paper behind). However, note the good out-of-the-box close fit of the other two edges of the door).
View attachment 80905
To fill the gap I used some 1 mm polystyrene sheet that I had, cut into 2 mm wide strips for each door. I superglued them together to make the strips 2mm x 2mm and used polycement (the actual glue, not the liquid solvent) to attach them to the door. I used the cement because I thought it would provider a stronger joint.:
View attachment 80906
The bottom edge was then sanded to fit. This is all standard stuff to most most others but its the first time I have added solid polystyrene to a part and it went well. It needed a lot of sanding to level it to the side surface of the doors and I discovered that a small file is quicker than a sanding stick when lots have to be removed.The doors make a perfect fit except that the other door needs a little trimming at the front edge to allow it to open. I will do that just after painting and attaching it. I don't like committing myself to gluing until it is necessary.
Next stop, dry fit the four panels of the bonnet and the central hinge rod to the engine bulkhead and the Rolls Royce radiator.
View attachment 80904
This photo shows the problem gap at the bottom (made visible by some white paper behind). However, note the good out-of-the-box close fit of the other two edges of the door).
View attachment 80905
To fill the gap I used some 1 mm polystyrene sheet that I had, cut into 2 mm wide strips for each door. I superglued them together to make the strips 2mm x 2mm and used polycement (the actual glue, not the liquid solvent) to attach them to the door. I used the cement because I thought it would provider a stronger joint.:
View attachment 80906
The bottom edge was then sanded to fit. This is all standard stuff to most most others but its the first time I have added solid polystyrene to a part and it went well. It needed a lot of sanding to level it to the side surface of the doors and I discovered that a small file is quicker than a sanding stick when lots have to be removed.The doors make a perfect fit except that the other door needs a little trimming at the front edge to allow it to open. I will do that just after painting and attaching it. I don't like committing myself to gluing until it is necessary.
Next stop, dry fit the four panels of the bonnet and the central hinge rod to the engine bulkhead and the Rolls Royce radiator.
View attachment 80904