M
mobear
Guest
giving you a bit of a fight steve,but i must say one stirling job you are doinf
mobear
mobear
J
John Huggins
Guest
Looking good Steve, i know it will be worth the effort in the end.
Keep up the good work.
John
Keep up the good work.
John
S
Stevekir
Guest
Engine bulkhead is finished except for the dashboard (next job) which will have burr walnut (hopefully, depending on how to keep the instruments).
In the first pic the electrical wiring was shown on the kit as raised lines which I always find unconvincing when painted. The thick black one (for the starter motor) was covered in thin strips of Magic Tape, not Sellotpe which tends to wrinkle with age (OK, cut the jokes) previously painted black and folded around the edges of the raised lines. The other wiring is 22 Gauge copper wire from a florists' supplier.
The image looks spotted with dust and white unpainted spots and lots of little reflections. Photos of models closeup often show that. The actual model looks much better to the eye.
The second pic shows the two plates. The top ("Coachwork Plate" I call it) is a print of a photo out of a book and you can just see the words "Rolls Royce". It looks clearer on the model. The lower ("Chassis Plate") is a mockup (the letters are too small to be seen at this scale).
BTW, I have just discovered by accident that you can upload files by dragging them from your computer to the message window (at least you can on a Mac). I suspect they appear at the end of the message so if you wanted them in between paragraphs it might be best to upload the images first then type the text in between.
View attachment 81270
View attachment 81271
In the first pic the electrical wiring was shown on the kit as raised lines which I always find unconvincing when painted. The thick black one (for the starter motor) was covered in thin strips of Magic Tape, not Sellotpe which tends to wrinkle with age (OK, cut the jokes) previously painted black and folded around the edges of the raised lines. The other wiring is 22 Gauge copper wire from a florists' supplier.
The image looks spotted with dust and white unpainted spots and lots of little reflections. Photos of models closeup often show that. The actual model looks much better to the eye.
The second pic shows the two plates. The top ("Coachwork Plate" I call it) is a print of a photo out of a book and you can just see the words "Rolls Royce". It looks clearer on the model. The lower ("Chassis Plate") is a mockup (the letters are too small to be seen at this scale).
BTW, I have just discovered by accident that you can upload files by dragging them from your computer to the message window (at least you can on a Mac). I suspect they appear at the end of the message so if you wanted them in between paragraphs it might be best to upload the images first then type the text in between.
View attachment 81270
View attachment 81271
N
noble
Guest
This is looking real nice so far Steve can't wait to see it complete.
scott
scott
S
Stevekir
Guest
Having decided to scratch build the dashboard (the one supplied would not take my burr walnut decal because of its lumps and bumps of surface detail), I have made some progress. The decal went on OK on the top item (its made of two pieces of sheet poly at right angles to each other), wrapping itself around the right angled bend and edges. However, the main part is flat (until I build on bits and pieces of surface detail) so I just glued on a piece of the decal paper complete with its bur walnut decal. The pink shape is made of wire, to be the bezel around the instruments, just placed there for now. It will of course be painted black! :
View attachment 82656
Also, I have made progress with the body parts and here is a pic of the chest that goes on the rear of the car. I'm pleased with the quality of the gloss:
View attachment 82657
View attachment 82656
Also, I have made progress with the body parts and here is a pic of the chest that goes on the rear of the car. I'm pleased with the quality of the gloss:
View attachment 82657
D
Deleted member 3568
Guest
That is looking very impressive well done, as you say the gloss is very, er, um, glossy?
P
Polux
Guest
This piece looks excellent!!
Well done
Well done
S
Stevekir
Guest
Slow Progress—been on holiday to Grasmere. (If you haven't been there, go. It is beautiful.)
Having decided to scratch build the dashboard (because my printed burr walnut decal refused to sink down on top of all the nobbles in the kit dashboard) I kept roughly to the kit design. The chrome plated knob on the left, on the glove box lid, is an ordinary pin. The handle on the right is also chrome, (Bare Metal Foil). Although the photo does not show it well, it glints nicely as you move your head around. The surround to the instruments is specified as black in the kit but a Rolls Royce enthusiast friend told me that it was usually nickel plated—too late now! That surround was made by sticking a copy of the instrument decal on to a piece of wood, then pins were stuck in all around the edge. A piece of copper wire was then bent and pulled around the pins to give it the required shape. There is another part to it, just a plain strip.
View attachment 83797
.
Here is the iconic Rolls Royce radiator. The kit one was chromed like the other chromed parts, but it had a wrinkle in the plastic, so I sanded the whole part ready for using Alclad 2 High Shine Chrome. However, that did not work. First, the black base produced white spots. This happened twice, each time after sanding down to plastic and of course cleaning. Alclad said that it must be caused by a reaction to the plastic. This is possible—the plastic for all the chromed parts was a milky white. Second, I could not get a high shine with the second coat no matter what I tried in various experiments. So I have given up on Alclad. I used Bare Metal Foil, Ultra Bright Chrome which seems to have worked although it is not perfect. More experience in using it would improve it. The yellow is a reflection of a sheet of paper. Photographing shiny objects is always difficult.
View attachment 83798
.
The top inside of the doors were specified in the instructions to be brown paint but having already printed some burr walnut decal I used that. It contrasts nicely with the green paint on the top edge of the door panel. The inside door handle will be chromed using Bare Metal Foil .
View attachment 83801
My next step is to start assembling the interior fittings and the body panels to the main body, all of which were painted some time ago.
Having decided to scratch build the dashboard (because my printed burr walnut decal refused to sink down on top of all the nobbles in the kit dashboard) I kept roughly to the kit design. The chrome plated knob on the left, on the glove box lid, is an ordinary pin. The handle on the right is also chrome, (Bare Metal Foil). Although the photo does not show it well, it glints nicely as you move your head around. The surround to the instruments is specified as black in the kit but a Rolls Royce enthusiast friend told me that it was usually nickel plated—too late now! That surround was made by sticking a copy of the instrument decal on to a piece of wood, then pins were stuck in all around the edge. A piece of copper wire was then bent and pulled around the pins to give it the required shape. There is another part to it, just a plain strip.
View attachment 83797
.
Here is the iconic Rolls Royce radiator. The kit one was chromed like the other chromed parts, but it had a wrinkle in the plastic, so I sanded the whole part ready for using Alclad 2 High Shine Chrome. However, that did not work. First, the black base produced white spots. This happened twice, each time after sanding down to plastic and of course cleaning. Alclad said that it must be caused by a reaction to the plastic. This is possible—the plastic for all the chromed parts was a milky white. Second, I could not get a high shine with the second coat no matter what I tried in various experiments. So I have given up on Alclad. I used Bare Metal Foil, Ultra Bright Chrome which seems to have worked although it is not perfect. More experience in using it would improve it. The yellow is a reflection of a sheet of paper. Photographing shiny objects is always difficult.
View attachment 83798
.
The top inside of the doors were specified in the instructions to be brown paint but having already printed some burr walnut decal I used that. It contrasts nicely with the green paint on the top edge of the door panel. The inside door handle will be chromed using Bare Metal Foil .
View attachment 83801
My next step is to start assembling the interior fittings and the body panels to the main body, all of which were painted some time ago.
P
Polux
Guest
Fantastic work so far. Is coming along very nice.
Looking very nice. Love the dash.
The reason you could not get a god shine on the second coat of Alclad chrome is probably due to it needs to go on in only one very light coat. But yes to get a chrome like finish is a challenge.
Ian M
The reason you could not get a god shine on the second coat of Alclad chrome is probably due to it needs to go on in only one very light coat. But yes to get a chrome like finish is a challenge.
Ian M
S
Stevekir
Guest
Thanks. I won't give up! I will try again with a very light coat, at even lower pressure (like 7 PSI—my 0.4 mm needle probably squirts at a greater rate than is best for Alclad). One thing I noticed on the last practice is that the chrome finish was very dry and I could wipe off some dust. From experience with acrylic gloss varnish, this seems to be due to the stream drying before it reaches the part. Holding the nozzle even closer and not pulling the trigger so far back might help.\ said:
D
Deleted member 3568
Guest
Looking very good that dash is amazing.
- Joined
- May 11, 2012
- Messages
- 249
- Points
- 43
I agree with Ian. Do as much as you can to get the black gloss finish (even put couple coats) and then just one thin chrome layer. If you spray it second time all the effect with disappear. I chromed this very radiator in my build and looked all right. People say that the better black base, the better chrome finish.
Good luck.
Good luck.
S
Stevekir
Guest
That's interesting. You apparently had no trouble from white spots on the black base (as I have), so Alclad's theory that the milky-white plastic of the radiator was reacting with the black base is not correct. It is puzzling that I can get a prefect mirror finish of the black base when applied on a metal drinks can (as suggested by Alclad. Assuming I can prevent those spots I will persevere with practicing applying a very light single coat of the chrome.\ said:
- Joined
- May 11, 2012
- Messages
- 249
- Points
- 43
S
Stevekir
Guest
Yes, I used the Alclad Black Base, and also on the drinks tin (as advised by Alclad to try to solve the white spots I got on the Rolls Royce radiator part after the black base was applied) and got a very good hard glossy shine with no spots. What helped was the experience I had gained in applying Tamiya's gloss synthetic lacquer to the body panels. My remaining problems are to solve the white spots on the radiator, and mastering applying the Chrome using the tips posted a few post above. But I'm off on a holiday in Scotland on Monday for 10 days (now that the warm weather has gon!), so no progress for a while yet.\ said: