Carrs make a great range of solders with different melt temps. A mix of high and low, and adjustable soldering Iron and off you go.
Spray booths make good soldering stations too. Maybe not with a naked flame though...
Agree with Carrs, they are very good solder suppliers, but I’ve never really got on with their fluxes, preferring phosphoric acid and plumbers power flow. Personally I’ve never needed a temperature controlled iron either Ian, but that may well be because I learned to solder before I could afford one…... I’ve soldered everything from locomotive chassis frames using electrical 245 degC solder to adding white metal spears to 15mm Zulu figures using white metal 85 degC solder with just a 15watt Antex iron and the appropriate bit.
Best technique is clean the parts, flux and pre tin the workpiece, reflux the joint (critical step), then tin the iron and make the joint as quickly as practicable with the minimum of solder. You just want to have enough solder on the tip to re melt the tinning and make the joint. With 145 solder and decent flux, using the iron then becomes almost like waving a magic wand. If the joint is taking too long to make then something is wrong. Stop, repeat the advice above, and try again.
The biggest issue with soldering is adding too much heat into the work and oxidising the areas to be soldered. Solder will not take to oxidised metal. That’s where liquid flux comes into its own. When you use the iron you can hear the liquid flux hissing away as it boils. If the hissing stops, then remove the iron before the metal oxidises, and reflux the joint.