1/24 diecast Chevy Nomad.

[Andy T]

I've finally decided on black for the roof so that got slapped on today. I had some left over from a maclaren I painted a while ago so used that. The very fine gold sparkle is a bit more prominent at this scale, but it's hard to see for the dust!

 

[Andy T]

The roof was masked off and I gave the body a coat of Halfords red oxide primer



Then a few coats of Peugeot Orange Power followed by clearcoat. I was doing this at work between other stuff so the weapons were a bit OTT! Iwata LPH80 for the colour, Iwata W300WB for the clear. Both are 1.2mm nozzles so I needed to feather the trigger a lot



Back home and sat in the sun, sparkling and curing

 

[minitnkr]

Very nice choice of orange well applied.

 

[Jim R]

Great choice of colours. You've got a nice sparkle.

 

[Andy T]

Thank you both.

As I mentioned earlier I'm not happy with the fit, panel gaps etc, but it's good practice for the next (plastic) one I suppose

 

[JR]

Looks pretty good Andy. Those colours are perfect.

 

[HAWKERHUNTER]

Dont know how I missed this build Andy. Just been through it. A very interesting and unusual project. I think you have done well especially with the modifications. Looking forward to seeing the end result.

 

[Andy T]

Thanks gentlemen.

I'm still faffing about with this until I decide what kit to build next, so I painted & fitted the anchors, making some larger callipers for the front



I'm also smoothing out the overriders and licence plate mounts in the bumpers, trying to get all of the chrome parts ready to paint at the same time.

 

[scottie3158]

Andy, the paint looks superb.

 

[Stefee]

Looking the business now - how about some neon lights under the sills and functioning air suspension?

 

[Andy T]

Andy, the paint looks superb.

Thanks Paul, I'm lucky enough to have had plenty of practice.

Looking the business now - how about some neon lights under the sills and functioning air suspension?

Haha, I'll see if I've got time after building the working V8

 

[Andy T]

I've been doing a lot of masking and thought I'd share this tip for those that aren't aware of it.

Occasionally you need to mask right up to something which might require cutting the tape in situ. Obviously this runs the risk of damaging the surface underneath, so here's my way around it.

With the tape in place, lay your blade gently along the cut line:



Then carefully start to peel back the tape. You aren't pressing with the blade, just pulling the tape back against it:



Keep peeling back, remembering not to press with the blade:



Keep going until the tape comes free:



A perfectly straight line, with minimal risk of damaging the paint below:



Of course I've just chosen a random spot here but it can come in very useful for masking right up to the edge of a panel, hard edge camo masking, or many other scenarios.

 

[scottie3158]

I've been doing a lot of masking and thought I'd share this tip for those that aren't aware of it.

Occasionally you need to mask right up to something which might require cutting the tape in situ. Obviously this runs the risk of damaging the surface underneath, so here's my way around it.

With the tape in place, lay your blade gently along the cut line:

View attachment 514598

Then carefully start to peel back the tape. You aren't pressing with the blade, just pulling the tape back against it:

View attachment 514599

Keep peeling back, remembering not to press with the blade:

View attachment 514600

Keep going until the tape comes free:

View attachment 514601

A perfectly straight line, with minimal risk of damaging the paint below:

View attachment 514602

Of course I've just chosen a random spot here but it can come in very useful for masking right up to the edge of a panel, hard edge camo masking, or many other scenarios.

That is very useful thanks Andy.

 

[Andy T]

I hope it helps someone Paul.


Here's the reason for all of that masking. I first applied a gloss black which is essential for a good chrome effect. Other colours can be used but it has to be glass smooth for the chrome paint to work properly. (hard to photograph) :



After letting that sit for several hours I applied the chrome, this time the GSW airbrush version. Very very light coats are needed to ensure the flakes lay flat for best reflectivity. These were lightly buffed between coats with a new microfiber cloth to remove any flakes that were standing up:





I'm going to let them sit overnight, then might add a clearcoat. That will lose a bit of the chrome shine but these paints are so fragile that it's the only way to stop them rubbing off with the lightest touch.

 

[minitnkr]

Beautiful.

 

[Andy T]

Beautiful.

Thanks Paul. I'm resigned to the fact that it'll always look like a toy but that won't stop me trying to make it look nice.

To be honest I'm having a mojo crisis right now. I've no idea what I want to build next as nothing is floating my boat. I'll keep trawling the shop & scalemates, hopefully something will catch my eye

 

[Andy T]

Still some bits to finish off but I'm getting there

 

[Stefee]

Andt that looks superb, especially like the colour combination and chrome wheels. When (if) I ever get through the stash I may very well attempt one of these. Very well done.

 

[HAWKERHUNTER]

Fantastic work Andy. A very comprehensive build thread.

 

[Neil Merryweather]

Trust me it doesn't look like a toy Andy!!