Brand new to the scale model world!

J

John Rixon

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There's a feast of information on the internet, and plenty on these pages alone! I too, am new to this malarky, but am spending a LOT of time sniffing around and making lots of links to pages for further reference. one bit of kit I'd heartily recommend is this set: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00E0CH5YI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

They're not super quality, but the self gripping ones make it value alone - very useful for painting tiny shovels and Bren Guns!
 
D

dubster72

Guest
Louis, there are paint conversion / comparison charts available online to aid picking the right colour / shade.

Most camo colours were well-regulated during wartime for all sides; German tanks used RAL colours, whereas Luftwaffe aircraft used RLM ones.

However, what's fine on a full-sized machine might not be so appropriate on a small-scale kit, so it's worth trying new things. As along as the colours are reasonably correct, no-ones going to make a huge issue of it.

If you're still unsure, post up what kit you're building, and one of us can advise further.

Cheers

Patrick
 
N

noble

Guest
Most kits on the market have paint instructions that usually include paint numbers, if you buy a Tamiya kit it will have Tamiya paint numbers to identify paint colours from their range.

scott
 
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Willi262

Guest
huh, looks like the Wehrmacht is more popular in model miniature than they were in real life...
 
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louish118

Guest
Thanks guys, i've got a Cromwell and a King Tiger Airfix start kit to attempt first and then I will hopefully be able to move up to something bigger as 1/76 is fiddly!
 
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louish118

Guest
What's the best method for removing paint from a brush? I don't want to damage the brush by leaving it in water. The paint wasn't thinned down enough so it's very sticky on the brush. Thanks.

Louis.
 

takeslousyphotos

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Hi Louis ............. as the Baron Said . Paint codes should be on the box........and you'll find various charts online for direct alternatives for different manufacturers ..... Revell, Humbrol, Tamiya etc ............ Some are oil based enamel and some are acrylic ...... Just don't mix the two on a model as they don't tend to like each other too much, and create strange reactions ........... Personally I prefer acrylic paints. But paint types are much a personal choice.............. It's just that people who have different opinions to me are possessed by evil spirits and are probably devil worshippers. :rolleyes:

Cheers

Peter
 

Lee W

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Welcome to the asylum

Enjoy your stay

Lee :smiling3:

P. S. Is that you hanging off a 4.5 on the pointy bit of a grey war canoe???
 

takeslousyphotos

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\ said:
What's the best method for removing paint from a brush? I don't want to damage the brush by leaving it in water. The paint wasn't thinned down enough so it's very sticky on the brush. Thanks.Louis.
Hi Louis ......... Enamel you need the proper Humbrol or Revell Thinner............ If you are using acrylic use IPA (ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) ......... You can get it online or at a chemist. It's cheap as well ......... You can also use it as a thinner for acrylic paint.

Pete
 
L

louish118

Guest
Thanks, i'm using the Humbrol Enamels so I'll fetch their thinners. :smiling3:

Louis.
 

spanner570

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Welcome from me too Louis.

Pete's quite right for thinning paints, but for cleaning.......

If we are talking enamels, then I clean all my brushes with Turpentine Substitute...Don't waste your money on 'Real' Turps! or so called branded brush cleaners....

Make sure all the paint is removed, particularily where the bristles are fixed into the metal of the brush head......Once the paint has been removed, wash the brush in warm soapy water, then rinse in fresh, then gently dry with lint free cloth, working with the layer of hair/ bristle to the tip of the brush.......

Or just let the brush dry naturally...... Suspended the right way up to prevent moisture gathering inside the metal ferrule, leading to all sorts of problems. A good brush, well looked after will last for years.

The above is my method, others will have theirs too.
 
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louish118

Guest
\ said:
Welcome to the asylumEnjoy your stay

Lee :smiling3:

P. S. Is that you hanging off a 4.5 on the pointy bit of a grey war canoe???
Yes that was my last day of service :smiling3:

Louis.
 

Ian M

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\ said:
Thanks, i'm using the Humbrol Enamels so I'll fetch their thinners. :smiling3: Louis.
NOOOOOOOOOO! don't do that it stinks. Beside for the price of a 200ml tin of their own brand. you can buy 5litre white spirit!

Ian M
 
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louish118

Guest
\ said:
NOOOOOOOOOO! don't do that it stinks. Beside for the price of a 200ml tin of their own brand. you can buy 5litre white spirit! Ian M
Thanks for the tip Ian :smiling3:

Louis.
 
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louish118

Guest
\ said:
Do tell, I'm intrigued...Lee :smiling3:
Nothing exciting, I done 4 years and decided to leave. I would love to get a model of a Type 23, preferably my old ship HMS Northumberland, but I'm having trouble finding one suitable for a newbie like myself!

Louis.
 

Ian M

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Trumpeter do a 1/350scale Type 23...Three in fact. I don't know if they are the same as you canoe though.

Ian M
 

Snowman

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Another ex-military bod, eh?o_O

Well, welcome.......you might not want to leave and do enjoy your stay.:rolleyes:
 
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louish118

Guest
\ said:
Trumpeter do a 1/350scale Type 23...Three in fact. I don't know if they are the same as you canoe though.Ian M
They seem to have most of the Type 23's but not my particular war canoe. I suppose i could just change the pennant number.

Louis.
 
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louish118

Guest
\ said:
Another ex-military bod, eh?o_OWell, welcome.......you might not want to leave and do enjoy your stay.:rolleyes:
Thanks!

Louis.
 
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