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solo
Guest
After reading the advice I have ordered the mixer it should arrive Tuesday .Good job its only small I am running out of room to put things
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Screw Loose
Guest
Piston tanks
On your piston tanks you said the only control you have is fully open or fully shut ? Are you having problems with the tanks ?
Oh and the PVC tubing that attatches to the inlet / outlet pipes, make sure you put a cable tie or some form of fixing on them. Mine this week, with the cold I think have kept coming off rather too easily. I would hate the boat to sink for something as silly as a tube coming off.
Paul
On your piston tanks you said the only control you have is fully open or fully shut ? Are you having problems with the tanks ?
Oh and the PVC tubing that attatches to the inlet / outlet pipes, make sure you put a cable tie or some form of fixing on them. Mine this week, with the cold I think have kept coming off rather too easily. I would hate the boat to sink for something as silly as a tube coming off.
Paul
M
Mankster
Guest
I would try and move the water intakes where they would be more cosmetically acceptable. The front or rear bulkhead below the surface water line (may be hard to get to once you have bonded the middle deck, if you dont make a bigger opening) or even lower down nearer the bottom of the hull away from eye shot.
Looks like you have the TAES controller board with the depth controler plug on module. Only a slider (or a the main stick with the spring removed) will be able to control that properly.
Looks like you have the TAES controller board with the depth controler plug on module. Only a slider (or a the main stick with the spring removed) will be able to control that properly.
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bao
Guest
why not use your throttle stick as a ballast and set it on your pitch on the 6ex as they do using it for helicopter pitch and using the pitch to control ballast its just an idea here is a link as how we use pitch control on helis , this looks like it may work ? i would love too know.
Esky King V2 Owners Lounge - Page 1079 - RC Groups
Esky King V2 Owners Lounge - Page 1079 - RC Groups
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solo
Guest
Again many thanks for you helpful replies and yes it is the TAES controller board with the depth controler plug on module. I wiill look into all the suggestions made and let you know how it goes.
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solo
Guest
Bit of a disaster today. Wired the dive tanks and control worked well until i decided to test the failsafe ie blow the tanks to surface on loss of radio signal.
The tanks emptied ok but the center spindle kept on travelling until it nearly dissapeared inside the casing. It would seem the micro switch meant to stop the motor didnt so I must have made a mistake in the wiring. Have stripped the tanks and fixed them so its now a rewire.
The tanks emptied ok but the center spindle kept on travelling until it nearly dissapeared inside the casing. It would seem the micro switch meant to stop the motor didnt so I must have made a mistake in the wiring. Have stripped the tanks and fixed them so its now a rewire.
S
Screw Loose
Guest
Makes you heart sink doesnt it when it goes wrong like that. On mine one of the piston tanks, the bracket with the microswitches on got slighty bent.
So when I powered up the tanks the rod came out and snapped one of the plungers off on a microswitch. So back to RS I went :angel:
So when I powered up the tanks the rod came out and snapped one of the plungers off on a microswitch. So back to RS I went :angel:
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solo
Guest
After a week and half of problems with the dive tanks new tae board arrived from Engel. Wired up the piston tanks again just as before (after repairing damage to tanks with help from members of this board) Worked first time of asking passed all tests :grinball2:
All I need to do now is find a spot for the pressure valve and seal the wtc.
All I need to do now is find a spot for the pressure valve and seal the wtc.
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solo
Guest
Ok Time to seal the wts.
Due to the wide gap between the wts top and the side of the sub i need to fiberglass a lip first. Messy job fiberglass got everywhere but where it should. Finished with seal needs cleaning up but came out watertight.
Not much room in here to fit all needed parts,just made it.
Due to the wide gap between the wts top and the side of the sub i need to fiberglass a lip first. Messy job fiberglass got everywhere but where it should. Finished with seal needs cleaning up but came out watertight.
Not much room in here to fit all needed parts,just made it.
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solo
Guest
With the WTC sealed and the electics in place decide to fit the top again and oops it will not fit bow and aft. It is rased approx 2 mm so i presume if i file 2 mm of the ceneter section all will be well.
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Mankster
Guest
I cant quite picture the gap, and am not sure how you attache the top to the bottom hull and how much give you have in the top hull, but 2mm doesn't sound like much. I prefer to fill gaps if at all possible rater than remove material and how it all lines up\ said:
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Screw Loose
Guest
I found on My Typhoon that the upper lid doesnt fit very well at all. I had to fill it with Milliput fillers and sand it off. It seems the components warp slightley over time and can cause gaps.:smile11:
Only problem is I have to etch the lines for the panels when its done to make it look better.
Only problem is I have to etch the lines for the panels when its done to make it look better.
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subzero
Guest
Solo
Try clamping the deck down to where it should be and warming it up with a hair dryer so it is warm to the touch,
DONT use any thing more aggresive and don't go mad.
It may just go back down when cooled and clamped in place.
Worth a try before filling and sanding bits off.
:regards: Sub.
Try clamping the deck down to where it should be and warming it up with a hair dryer so it is warm to the touch,
DONT use any thing more aggresive and don't go mad.
It may just go back down when cooled and clamped in place.
Worth a try before filling and sanding bits off.
:regards: Sub.
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solo
Guest
Spent the last week or so struggling with the wtc lid. No matter what i did it would not seal. On close inspection it was found the top of the wtc was warped on the rear end. After lots of deleiberation decided to shorten the wtc by fiberglassing back to the next bolts. It worked all sealed now and no leaks. Meanwhile have been working on the lid,fits much better now the Hair dryer idea worked a treat.
T
Task Force 57
Guest
Seriously cool type IX!!!
This kit is a real gem, been giving thought to buying a sub kit and joining the dark side of blue-water model making...this and the typhoon that a fellow of our boards has constucted has finally convinced me that nows the time!
As im still waiting for my uk possesions to cross "the pond" (darn those fellows at pickfords!) Im not able to finish off my HMS Eskimo (drat and double drat~!)... so its out with the credit cards and shopping time.
Any of you USA based fellows care to recomend a good east coast store... been considering the type IX by engels, but cant find a US seller.
This kit is a real gem, been giving thought to buying a sub kit and joining the dark side of blue-water model making...this and the typhoon that a fellow of our boards has constucted has finally convinced me that nows the time!
As im still waiting for my uk possesions to cross "the pond" (darn those fellows at pickfords!) Im not able to finish off my HMS Eskimo (drat and double drat~!)... so its out with the credit cards and shopping time.
Any of you USA based fellows care to recomend a good east coast store... been considering the type IX by engels, but cant find a US seller.
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subzero
Guest
Hello Solo,
Glad to hear the hairdryer trick worked out ok, it useually does.
:regards: Sub.
Glad to hear the hairdryer trick worked out ok, it useually does.
:regards: Sub.
D
deelder
Guest
Hello Solo,
Nice work! Are both halves (upper and lower part) fitting well now?
Im very interested how you are getting on.
Regards,
Martin
Nice work! Are both halves (upper and lower part) fitting well now?
Im very interested how you are getting on.
Regards,
Martin
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solo
Guest
Yes both halves now fit thanks.
Not posted any more pics yet as I am still having trouble seaing the wtc lid. I hope to have that sorted soon and will then be able to get on with the top deck.
Not posted any more pics yet as I am still having trouble seaing the wtc lid. I hope to have that sorted soon and will then be able to get on with the top deck.
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Screw Loose
Guest
Hi Solo. Hows it going with the seal on the lid ? Have you got the supplied seal to work?
I am just waiting on my new one coming from Engel, but I have thought about buying some Neoprene sheet from RS. At least I could make it to fit without having to join anything.
Interested to know if yours is sorted.
Paul
I am just waiting on my new one coming from Engel, but I have thought about buying some Neoprene sheet from RS. At least I could make it to fit without having to join anything.
Interested to know if yours is sorted.
Paul
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solo
Guest
No not sorted yet. I did recieve the new seals from Engle but again the bolts were the problem. I am at the moment working with the neoprane and roofing screws idea.
It has taken about a week to remove the old bolts and I now have to screw in all the roofing screws then cut off the cutting portion at the bottom of the screw. Will post you when I have done this and lt you know if this works
Ray
It has taken about a week to remove the old bolts and I now have to screw in all the roofing screws then cut off the cutting portion at the bottom of the screw. Will post you when I have done this and lt you know if this works
Ray