Mercedes SLS AMG 1:24 Revell 07100.

[Marc Stock]

Right, finally made some progress. Work and home has been absolutely stoopid of late.
Not looking forward to Christmas and New Year. Late shift Christmas Eve, on call Christmas Day and early shift on Boxing Day. Also early shift New Years Day so no shenanigans New Years Eve for me.


Anywho, finally got the paint looking okish, have a couple of minor details to add on the doors and then they are finished. Tried to add the symbols on the window buttons but only partially successful.


Work stopped till after Christmas but shifts in January back to normal so might have a bit more to report then.


It does mean that this and my group builds will be late, so bite me!View attachment 141088 View attachment 141089

This is really precise clean work here. Out of interest what paints are you using for the interior.

 

[Netboy]

This is really precise clean work here. Out of interest what paints are you using for the interior.

Using Revell acrylics but for chrome work or some aluminium paints I am using Alclad. I have this slight nerdy/ocd thing going where I like to use Tamiya paint on Tamiya models, Revell paint on Revell models etc.


Finding the Revell paints ok to use but there does seem to be varying degrees of thickness of paint. My usual trick of mixing some thinner straight into the pot doesn't seem to work with these paints as they are still too thick.


I bought some mini paint pots from John and I have tried to guesstimate how much of each type of paint I will need and have mixed the required amount of paint and thinner in each pot. I used Tamiya X20A thinner as the correct Revell thinner just curdled the paint!!!!!


The paint seems to spray well with no instances of needle clogging or other problems.


For primer I've used either Vallejo primers or in some instances I've used Alclad primer/micro filler, and obviously when using Alclad chrome I've used the Alclad gloss black.


Still very much on a learning curve, hoping to finish this early in January and take the lessons learned on to my next model.

 

[Marc Stock]

Well its looking flipping good. I tend to use humbrol enamels, but i am moving towards zero paints for all work. The Alclad paints do seem to have good reviews..im doing a new order in January and am doing a bumper buyup of paint..


The enamels are only good for one thing, paintbrushes. Every time i try to use enamel thinned in an airbrush even if yhe paint is okay to start with after about 40 mins it cloggs up. Also when airbushing enamel its really sticky and attracts dust, like itvactuall seems to suck dust out of the air.


So I think im done with enamels exept for small detail work and things like shutlines. Etc

 

[dougie]

This is looking nice, the zero paints are good for body stuff. Lacquer paints are so thin that you can get a nice finish quite easily if your base is nice and smooth. I like the tamiya paints for spraying the interior parts. Alclad is stunning for metal stuff. I have started using zero primer on all parts when I can. Then I can put almost anything on top later.


Look forward to more updates

 

[Netboy]

Well its looking flipping good. I tend to use humbrol enamels, but i am moving towards zero paints for all work. The Alclad paints do seem to have good reviews..im doing a new order in January and am doing a bumper buyup of paint..
The enamels are only good for one thing, paintbrushes. Every time i try to use enamel thinned in an airbrush even if yhe paint is okay to start with after about 40 mins it cloggs up. Also when airbushing enamel its really sticky and attracts dust, like itvactuall seems to suck dust out of the air.


So I think im done with enamels exept for small detail work and things like shutlines. Etc

I actually do like enamels for spraying. (Personal opinion follows!!!!) the only problems I have with them is the drying time, especially gloss and semi gloss, and ease of stripping should I bollix up the painting :oops:.

 

[Marc Stock]

Actually yeah i do like enamels for spraying small parts like calipers, discs etc becouse it goes so.hard But for larger areas i find zero paints the business..

 

[Netboy]

Front grille.


It doesn't really show it but the Mercedes emblem is in chrome and the bit it is attached to is in aluminium (and silky black obviously.)

 

[MK Academy]

This merc looks really good..I think I'll get this one ..

 

[MK Academy]

I actually do like enamels for spraying. (Personal opinion follows!!!!) the only problems I have with them is the drying time, especially gloss and semi gloss, and ease of stripping should I bollix up the painting :oops:.

Looking around the forum I think I'm the only one that still use brush to paint..I don't use compressor because I like to feel the brush..I use enamel which I thin and different size brushes..this is my latest body that I painted with brush..

 

[meggsy]

This is coming along very nice that front grill is the dogs keep up the good work


i like to build what ever I fancy at the time planes tanks whatever but it is Good to see there are a few car and bike builders on here

 

[Netboy]

 

[Marc Stock]

Nice paintwork. Is that enamel?

 

[Netboy]

No, revell acrylic, looks even betterer now imo, I've polished it up with some 12000 and clear glossed it, now just have to cut it back with some 8000 and 12000 and apply polish. I think I'm starting to get the hang of this.

 

[dougie]

Looking around the forum I think I'm the only one that still use brush to paint..I don't use compressor because I like to feel the brush..I use enamel which I thin and different size brushes..this is my latest body that I painted with brush..
View attachment 145236

Great work, that looks fab for brush painting. Everyone has their way if working, as long as it provides satisfactory results

 

[Netboy]

Ick! Just when you think you're getting the hang of it this hobby jumps up and kicks you in the doodads.


I did a light polishing of the paint with some 12000 paper and let it dry.


I then applied some gloss varnish (Vallejo) this morning and tonight at about 9:30 I started to polish with some 8000 and 12000. To my horror, after a while the varnish started to peel off. Curses, I had to remove all the varnish.


Not sure what I did wrong, any ideas?


Anyway, got a bit cross so just decided to apply some polish directly on the paint. I think it looks ok but think it would have looked better with a clear gloss finish over it.

 

[noble]

WOW that body work is amazing I admire you car guys and gals that get this kind of result.


Scott

 

[Marc Stock]

Ick! Just when you think you're getting the hang of it this hobby jumps up and kicks you in the doodads.
I did a light polishing of the paint with some 12000 paper and let it dry.


I then applied some gloss varnish (Vallejo) this morning and tonight at about 9:30 I started to polish with some 8000 and 12000. To my horror, after a while the varnish started to peel off. Curses, I had to remove all the varnish.


Not sure what I did wrong, any ideas?

Could be that you applied the clearcoat on a surface that is too smooth. It had nothing to grab onto. So when it dried it would of effectively sheeted off and a little bit of sanding would of been enough to overcome the friction between layers making it peel.


What I would have done is sand your topcoat with the 8000 grit (6000 would actually of made a better key for your clearcoat), washed it and dried it and then apply your clearcoats. Leave your 12000 for the topcoat only.


Also Acrylics are not as strong bonding as cellulose paints or enamel. This is why zero paints for car bodywork are so popular as the paint actually softens the surface being applied and ends up bonding to the plastic as the cellulose gasses off.


Of course cellulose paints can be harmful to the lungs and you need masks to use and good ventilation! Where acrylic is safe and better for you more care is need when working the surface for polishing.

 

[Netboy]

Could be that you applied the clearcoat on a surface that is too smooth. It had nothing to grab onto. So when it dried it would of effectively sheeted off and a little bit of sanding would of been enough to overcome the friction between layers making it peel.
What I would have done is sand your topcoat with the 8000 grit (6000 would actually of made a better key for your clearcoat), washed it and dried it and then apply your clearcoats. Leave your 12000 for the topcoat only.


Also Acrylics are not as strong bonding as cellulose paints or enamel. This is why zero paints for car bodywork are so popular as the paint actually softens the surface being applied and ends up bonding to the plastic as the cellulose gasses off.


Of course cellulose paints can be harmful to the lungs and you need masks to use and good ventilation! Where acrylic is safe and better for you more care is need when working the surface for polishing.

Thanks Marc, all part of the learning curve.


Your point was one that I considered as the most likely suspect.


I also wondered if I had maybe worked on the gloss clear coat too soon, perhaps I should have waited as it was less than 24 hours after applying the gloss.


I also wondered if maybe the type of gloss clear coat was wrong, I might try with some of the alclad aqua gloss or even Future.

 

[Marc Stock]

Could be any one or a combination of these factors. I remember last year when i did my 1st model since 14 years old bought some humbrol clearcoat and it was terrible . It cracked up all over the place like a spider flaked off and i had to do again with brush clearcoat and thinners in an airbrush.

 

[dougie]

Did you maybe not leave enough time for the paint to cure on top of the fact that it maybe had no key to bite into? I agree with the above, 4000 would be adequate to allow the clear to flow well and still bite but for the clear to be thick enough to sand and Polish it would need a few layers which could take days to dry and harden. I've seen me apply clear too thick and the clear is still soft underneath the top coat weeks later. It's hard to gauge how thick to put it on and how long to let it dry sometimes.