New guy !

[Aurora]

if you let me again i would like to give some words from my experiance. i am writing this also to hear comments from other people.

first of all in this work most of things are DOP (depends on person)

i want to tell something about rattle cans. just ask this question to yourself "do i like this and continue building models?" if the answer is yes, just go and grab an airbrush. yes rattle cans are tempting, cheap to buy, no need to clean etc but they are uncontrolable. they blow too much paint. with small scale models you might end up filling details with paint. how i know this? i have done it :D dont be frightened about cleaning. just blow 1-2 cap alcohol or glass cleaner from supermarket and all the paint inside will blown away. and disassmble AB once a month and place only metal parts inside synthetic thinner for 2-3 hours. thats all. dual action ABs are very good for detail works and you can spray very thin layer of paint over the model. whilie choosing AB pick bigger than 7cc paint capacity brushes. for me 7cc is the minimum.

i dont want to suggest any brand for AB paints because from my point of view it is the biggest DOP. there is a very good word for this.

"you don't choose paint, paint chooses you padawan, - Master Yoda"

all of the brands and colours have its own thinnig ingredient and quantity. you should find best fit for you. if you ask what i use, it is tamiya acrylic & tamiya thinner. but there are 2 rules everyone must obey;

1- Stay away from enamels. they are highly toxic. they might cause kidney cancer. health is more important than everything else. go straight to acrylics

2- Do not mix different brand's paints and thinners. they might go into chemical reaction. and ruin your day.

feel free to use your imagination, instead of buying some simple things. for example you can easily craft something like this or more advenced ones http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-pcs-Airbrush-Spray-Gun-PARTS-HOLDER-CLIP-STAND-Holds-Model-Hobby-Painting-/161183214247?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item258744aaa7 on your own with cheap items from nearby workshop. i have build my own paint cabin instead of buying this expensive product http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tamiya-Airbrush-System-No-34-Painting-Booth-Japan-Best-Deal-/201228025075?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item2eda1ffcf3

sometimes you make big mistakes for painting which is very normal or sometimes you just dont like & want to change the colour. you need to buy a paint remover, there are products designed for this. what i use for this is DOT 3 break fluid just put your model into this fluid and wait for 2 days. most of the paint will be taken away, if there are some paint left over the model, you can easily take it away. comparing with the special products it is chep and you can use it again and again after using it many times i suggest you to buy some high quality brands like Castrol. but be careful. it is highly toxic. contain it with a good quality box like tupperware and don't touch it w/o gloves.

and yes i am the new patient in this asylum

sorry for the long post and poor english

have a nice day

 

[Stevekir]

if you let me again i would like to give some words from my experiance. i am writing this also to hear comments from other people.first of all in this work most of things are DOP (depends on person)

i want to tell something about rattle cans. just ask this question to yourself "do i like this and continue building models?" if the answer is yes, just go and grab an airbrush. yes rattle cans are tempting, cheap to buy, no need to clean etc but they are uncontrolable. they blow too much paint. with small scale models you might end up filling details with paint. how i know this? i have done it :D

........

I normally use an airbrush with acrylics and I agree that rattle cans can be uncontrollable, although practice helps. For my recent 1/16 Rolls Royce I was very keen to get a very smooth mirror-like shiny surface because all cars have that. After experimenting with acrylic gloss paint I chose Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer. This was because the lacquer produced a thicker coat that allowed sanding and polishing any imperfections (dust etc.) with less danger (compared to an acrylic gloss) of going through to the lower layer of primer. This was OK for the simpler gently curved parts but I had to use the airbrush to get enough lacquer into the depressions like the insides of the wheel wings without flooding nearby parts. The result was very satisfactory (for me).