I
itsa_ss
Guest
how much does a kit like that cost?
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
The basic Revel kit costs in the region of £40.00 ($60.00).
The wooden deck and Photo-etch set cost about the same again and then this particular model has the motors, shafts, props, receiver, speed controller, servo and batteries as well to add to that.
The wooden deck and Photo-etch set cost about the same again and then this particular model has the motors, shafts, props, receiver, speed controller, servo and batteries as well to add to that.
I
itsa_ss
Guest
i have never built an RC and liked the subs that i had seen on this web site, and thought that i might give it a try. maybe??? so the model that you priced for $60.00 does not come with the motors, shafts, props, receiver, speed controller, servo and batteries? and can you give me a rough estiment on how much all that cost?
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
Taylor,
The model is not actually designed as an RC model so it has to be modified to become one.
The basic plastic kit is about $60.00
Wooden deck set, $45.00
Photo-etch set, $25.00
Motors, shafts, props, tubes, couplings about $45.00
Rudder Micro-Servo, $10.00
Micro-Receiver, $45.00
Two Channel Radio, $60.00
Two 6 'C' cell 7.2 volt Ni-cad packs, from my bit box but would probably be about 7-8 dollars each.
Charger if you haven't got one.
The wooden deck and the Phot-Etch can be omitted and the other items are based on memory and British prices so you may do a bit better with American stuff if you can get it easily.
The modifications basically consist of drilling out the hull to take the new shafts and tubes, adding ballast, fitting the RC gear and arranging for access to all the RC components.
This has all involved a lot of work as I perticularly wanted a scale working model. If you want a much easier introduction into RC subs you may well be better of with a simple kit such as a Robbe Seawolf where it is designed from the start as a RC model. They are available in the UK for £114.00 (nearly $200.00) but that includes all the shafts, motors etc. so you only need batteries and a radio.
The model is not actually designed as an RC model so it has to be modified to become one.
The basic plastic kit is about $60.00
Wooden deck set, $45.00
Photo-etch set, $25.00
Motors, shafts, props, tubes, couplings about $45.00
Rudder Micro-Servo, $10.00
Micro-Receiver, $45.00
Two Channel Radio, $60.00
Two 6 'C' cell 7.2 volt Ni-cad packs, from my bit box but would probably be about 7-8 dollars each.
Charger if you haven't got one.
The wooden deck and the Phot-Etch can be omitted and the other items are based on memory and British prices so you may do a bit better with American stuff if you can get it easily.
The modifications basically consist of drilling out the hull to take the new shafts and tubes, adding ballast, fitting the RC gear and arranging for access to all the RC components.
This has all involved a lot of work as I perticularly wanted a scale working model. If you want a much easier introduction into RC subs you may well be better of with a simple kit such as a Robbe Seawolf where it is designed from the start as a RC model. They are available in the UK for £114.00 (nearly $200.00) but that includes all the shafts, motors etc. so you only need batteries and a radio.
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
Well today I worked on getting all those little bits and bobs finished and getting the deck looking as I wanted it.
The whole idea of the expense of the wooden deck was so that the laser cut holes would look neat and the wood texture would look far more realistic than the plastic original.
After the original coat of matt dark grey was applied, the real decks were coated with a matt black paint, I made up a wash of very thin brown enamel paint. This was painted over the recessed detail and then immediately wiped away with my finger. This left the wash in the detail and it also shaded the deck colour nicely.
When that was done I then dry brushed matt white in patches over the deck surface. Being a wooden deck regularly submerged in sea water just about every picture I can find of a U-Boat deck shows very clearly white salt deposits on the deck. I have never seen this simulated on a model yet so I particularly wanted to show this effect.
The final effect on the deck was a gunmetal dry brush over the areas of the footholds around the 8.8 cm gun and the capstan, which was actually scuffed pieces of metal on the real boats. I made these out of stretched sprue and plasticard.
I then added a soot deposit in way of the deisel exhausts with an airbrush, which is really the only way to generate such a softly shaded paint effect.
When this was done I have to say I was really pleased with the overall effect of the deck. The detail looks crisp and the weathering looks quite realistic and nicely contrasts with the steel areas of the deck and hull.
The rest of the day was then spent adding bits of detail and attending to the rigging. The rigging was a bit of a challenge, as it has to be removable to allow the removal of the centre section. I incorporated a section of rubber cord into the forward wire and a hook so that the rigging can be released quickly and easily. The centre section will still be attached by the aft wires but it can be conveniently sat on the aft deck when removed.
The final couple of bits remain to be completed such as the hand rail wires and the making of the stand, which should be completed tomorrow and the final touch of a few crewmembers may well be done during my next trip away. I am hoping that my flag (including Swastika!) from BECC will arrive soon to finish off the detail of the bridge.
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The whole idea of the expense of the wooden deck was so that the laser cut holes would look neat and the wood texture would look far more realistic than the plastic original.
After the original coat of matt dark grey was applied, the real decks were coated with a matt black paint, I made up a wash of very thin brown enamel paint. This was painted over the recessed detail and then immediately wiped away with my finger. This left the wash in the detail and it also shaded the deck colour nicely.
When that was done I then dry brushed matt white in patches over the deck surface. Being a wooden deck regularly submerged in sea water just about every picture I can find of a U-Boat deck shows very clearly white salt deposits on the deck. I have never seen this simulated on a model yet so I particularly wanted to show this effect.
The final effect on the deck was a gunmetal dry brush over the areas of the footholds around the 8.8 cm gun and the capstan, which was actually scuffed pieces of metal on the real boats. I made these out of stretched sprue and plasticard.
I then added a soot deposit in way of the deisel exhausts with an airbrush, which is really the only way to generate such a softly shaded paint effect.
When this was done I have to say I was really pleased with the overall effect of the deck. The detail looks crisp and the weathering looks quite realistic and nicely contrasts with the steel areas of the deck and hull.
The rest of the day was then spent adding bits of detail and attending to the rigging. The rigging was a bit of a challenge, as it has to be removable to allow the removal of the centre section. I incorporated a section of rubber cord into the forward wire and a hook so that the rigging can be released quickly and easily. The centre section will still be attached by the aft wires but it can be conveniently sat on the aft deck when removed.
The final couple of bits remain to be completed such as the hand rail wires and the making of the stand, which should be completed tomorrow and the final touch of a few crewmembers may well be done during my next trip away. I am hoping that my flag (including Swastika!) from BECC will arrive soon to finish off the detail of the bridge.
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R
rjwood_uk
Guest
the deck looks really good Richard!!! the salt deposit is a really nice touch!!!
any chance of a picture of the whole thing?
lovely work!!!
any chance of a picture of the whole thing?
lovely work!!!
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
It should make it's maiden voyage tomorrow morning when I will take a couple of shots of it. It needs to be pretty calm though so it may have to wait.
It won't be completely finished until the figures and the flag are on it which may not be for a while yet.
It won't be completely finished until the figures and the flag are on it which may not be for a while yet.
I
itsa_ss
Guest
thanks Richard for taking the time to explain it all to me! im going to look into the seawolf and see what the avaliblity is in the states. thanks
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
That's what we are here for.
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
I actually got the flag from BECC today so that was the last peice to be fitted. It certainly is a vast improvement over the original, and it has the correct Swastika on it of course.
The only remaining thing now is to paint and fit the figures but I think I will do them on the ship next time.
Apart from that it is now finished, had her sea trials and will be going with me to the pond tomorrow.
The finishing touch was a stand which was made from a couple of peices of mahogany, cut to the original stand verticals, two brass bars with turned down brass screws to hold them into the uprights and a base of yet another 95p surplus kitchen drawer from from a garden centre.
So a couple of finished pictures to end the project. I can't remember the last time I actually started and finished something, scary!!
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The only remaining thing now is to paint and fit the figures but I think I will do them on the ship next time.
Apart from that it is now finished, had her sea trials and will be going with me to the pond tomorrow.
The finishing touch was a stand which was made from a couple of peices of mahogany, cut to the original stand verticals, two brass bars with turned down brass screws to hold them into the uprights and a base of yet another 95p surplus kitchen drawer from from a garden centre.
So a couple of finished pictures to end the project. I can't remember the last time I actually started and finished something, scary!!
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I
itsa_ss
Guest
Richard that is a very nice u-boat! u got some skills!
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
Thanks for your comments Taylor.
I can assure you though, I am still learning all the time!!
I can assure you though, I am still learning all the time!!
R
rjwood_uk
Guest
shes a beauty Richard. Who are these people you got the flag off? what kind of other stuff do they do?
Richard
Richard
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
Modeflags do a substantial range of flags and assorted hull markings on vinyl. The flags are in fine cotton and can be made to look very realistic.
Have a look at thier range here:
http://www.modelflags.com/
Have a look at thier range here:
http://www.modelflags.com/
M
magpie
Guest
Nice
Nice weathering job!
She's real eye candy now. You're right about the detail compared to the robbe kit deck and tower. Heaps better.
Jason
Nice weathering job!
She's real eye candy now. You're right about the detail compared to the robbe kit deck and tower. Heaps better.
Jason
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
The Revel hull detail is superb and seems to line up with most reference pictures I can find. My original intention with this kit was to provide a reference to add detail to a Robbe kit in the future.
I'm afraid I have now turned my attention to an Engles type VII which looks superb but I will have to save up for a bit longer!!
R
rjwood_uk
Guest
....how much is that? (if you dont mind me asking)
(including all extra bits you would want to buy for it e.g. detail sets/r/c gear if you plan on making it into an rc...roughly)
(including all extra bits you would want to buy for it e.g. detail sets/r/c gear if you plan on making it into an rc...roughly)
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
The Engles kit includes two dive tanks and all the running gear and electronics.
You basically need to add the radio and batteries but you end up with a superbly engineered, accurate and nicely detailed type VII.
Strangely enough the model is of U-203, which is the U-boat I made my Revel kit into. It's an omen!! I need to buy the kit!!!!
The trouble is that it is just short of 2000.00 Euro, currently about 1377.00 Pounds. That is going to take some selling to Annette, especially with a 5-8 channel radio on top of that.
You basically need to add the radio and batteries but you end up with a superbly engineered, accurate and nicely detailed type VII.
Strangely enough the model is of U-203, which is the U-boat I made my Revel kit into. It's an omen!! I need to buy the kit!!!!
The trouble is that it is just short of 2000.00 Euro, currently about 1377.00 Pounds. That is going to take some selling to Annette, especially with a 5-8 channel radio on top of that.
M
magpie
Guest
Ow go on!
She won't mind mate. Tell her I made you do it if you like!
Jason:smile10:
B
Bunkerbarge
Guest
She'll be great, she always is. I do need to finish the steam coaster first though. There is a lot of money in her that needs to be justified by at least completing it.
I do think an Engles Type VII will be next though.
I do think an Engles Type VII will be next though.