Tamiya F15C Eagle 1/32 scale

BarryW

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I have been getting on with masking and painting...

underside is MRP-094 and I was concerned that the one bottle of paint would not be enough on an aircraft of this size, with the area to be painted in that colour and none of the suppliers in the UK have it in stock...

Anyway - these I painted MRP-094
IMG_1970.jpg

And masked up the airframe after painting the metal area to the rear. I wont want to varnish the metallised area as it would detract from the metal like finish so it will be left masked for the duration...
IMG_1973.jpg

IMG_1974.jpg

So I started with the top and left unpainted the rough area of the darker grey. It saves paint...

IMG_1975.jpg

Then the underside - guesse what, there was enough paint, just... a few drops left in the bottle for touch ups... MRP's coverage often surprises me...

I did a mist coat of Mr Levelling Thinner, it reactivates the paint and helps improve the finish. It is also part of the airbrush cleaning process, so two birds killed with one stone...
IMG_1976.jpg

Next I will apply some MLT to the top once the dark grey has gone own. Stabs and tail tonight.
 

BarryW

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Started work on the darker grey areas with the fins and stabs.

Originally I was going to freehand it but I then decided that this scheme is perfect for Panzer Putty masking.

All masked and sprayed
A1DB3B20-488A-4236-8D1C-74FAFA388239.jpeg

A few minutes later and Panzer Putty removed.

1FA986A5-6DEE-40AE-8CC5-339BBA6991D6.jpeg

I will do the other sides of the fins and then onto the main airframe.
 
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Like the idea of reactivating the paint to smooth, I assume, it out. I'd leave the metallic finish as well without varnish.
 
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I have to be honest, I opened this, saw the photos of the fins and stabs before actually reading it and I thought, OH, NO! What's happened to them? I thought they'd melted with something.
Phew!
 

BarryW

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progessing with painting.

Missiles main bodies painted, nose cones and detail to do. The reverse sies of fins also done.
IMG_1979.jpg

Mask done ready for the darker grey on the top of the airframe. Once that is done I will mask up seperately to do the srea arond the cockpit.

IMG_1980.jpg
 
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That looks fantastic work. For my own benefit what is the glue you use to stick the pe detail and the panzer putty, is this a little like blue tac or is it much more malleable?
carl
 

BarryW

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That looks fantastic work. For my own benefit what is the glue you use to stick the pe detail and the panzer putty, is this a little like blue tac or is it much more malleable?
carl
Carl. The Gator Glue is a water based glue like p.v.a., its easily available.

The Panzer Putty masking material is re-usable, easily shaped and it sinks into detail. There are several brands available and it is great for masking flowing camo schemes such as this F15 and RAF WW2 camo.
John has the AK brand of this type of material in the Scale Model Shop
 

HAWKERHUNTER

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Wonderful work Barry. Coming on a treat. Brave work on the canopy. Can I have more detail on what grades you used and the polishing compound. Thanks.
 

BarryW

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Jim R

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Hi Barry
As always very neat, well thought out, skilled modelling. Another superb model in the making.
Jim
 
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Carl. The Gator Glue is a water based glue like p.v.a., its easily available.

The Panzer Putty masking material is re-usable, easily shaped and it sinks into detail. There are several brands available and it is great for masking flowing camo schemes such as this F15 and RAF WW2 camo.
John has the AK brand of this type of material in the Scale Model Shop
Is the glue only available from outside the uk?
 
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Airframe painted and some detail painting done. Gloss varnish next

View attachment 385732
Gloss varnish, my pet hate, I’ve done six models and still not found the perfect way To apply or best brand of varnish. Either it seems to go on too thick (Humbrol gloss) and create random drops or else it goes on egg shell feeling a bit rough in the case of Vallejo I tried.
 

BarryW

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Gloss varnish, my pet hate, I’ve done six models and still not found the perfect way To apply or best brand of varnish. Either it seems to go on too thick (Humbrol gloss) and create random drops or else it goes on egg shell feeling a bit rough in the case of Vallejo I tried.

my advice for what it’s worth is to first do a very light sanding between paint coats. By light I do mean light. In addition if you use a lacquer based paint such as Gunze or better still, MRP, you can finish off with a light mist coat of Mr Levelling Thinner which smooths and levels the paint by reactivating it.

As for what varnish, I have tried a lot of brands and the best I have found are, for acrylic water based Alclad Aqua Gloss or the MRP lacquer varnish. I do go on, and on, about how good the MRP paints are, because they simply are, but their varnishes are just as good.

Remember though, you do not need a ‘high gloss’ on a model. Like for colour there is a scale affect to take into account. A ‘high gloss’ can simply look unrealistic if it is a gloss finish you need. If it is needed, as in the case of this F15, for the application of decals then it is just about making sure there are no air bubbles to cause silvering. Gloss is a help with this but again it does not have to be ‘high gloss’.
 
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my advice for what it’s worth is to first do a very light sanding between paint coats. By light I do mean light. In addition if you use a lacquer based paint such as Gunze or better still, MRP, you can finish off with a light mist coat of Mr Levelling Thinner which smooths and levels the paint by reactivating it.

As for what varnish, I have tried a lot of brands and the best I have found are, for acrylic water based Alclad Aqua Gloss or the MRP lacquer varnish. I do go on, and on, about how good the MRP paints are, because they simply are, but their varnishes are just as good.

Remember though, you do not need a ‘high gloss’ on a model. Like for colour there is a scale affect to take into account. A ‘high gloss’ can simply look unrealistic if it is a gloss finish you need. If it is needed, as in the case of this F15, for the application of decals then it is just about making sure there are no air bubbles to cause silvering. Gloss is a help with this but again it does not have to be ‘high gloss’.
Thanks for the advice, I’ve not tried the MRP yet so maybe I’ll give that a go next. As you say it’s about finding something that works for you.
 

BarryW

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Decaling has proceeded slowly. This has always been the problem with my previous modern jet builds as I have found it impossible to avoid the large and complex shaped decals from splintering, spoecially over detail. This time I will be completing this aircraft in an actual genuine scheme and not some mish-mash scraped together. There was some splintering on the large tail decals but as the grey is the identical grey to the dark camo scheme it was an easy fix. By identical, I do mean identical, the aftermarket decals provided the FS number for the darker camo and that is exactly wshat they use on the decals.... Now, I do understand low viz, but it does seem odd not to at least use a slightly different shade for the eagle....... specially as not all the decals are exactly low viz...

Anyway I have done a semi-gloss sealing coat on the top of the fuselage and will do the bottom tonight.

IMG_1991.jpg

IMG_1990.jpg

IMG_1989.jpg
 
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