The HobbyBoss 1/32 B24D Liberator.

Jakko

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Interestingly the photos showed the band in several positions including not on a curve or angle
IIRC, the yellow band is to indicate these are HE bombs, so the exact position of the band isn’t overly important. Ah, here we go:

TM 9-1980 Bombs for Aircraft (1944).jpg

This is a page from US Army Technical Manual 9-1980 Bombs for Aircraft of November 1944, which can be found online as a PDF (though I don’t remember where I got it).
 

Neil Merryweather

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We had loads of them in the prop store when I worked on Masters of the Air- made of fibreglass of course.
That was a great job!
 

adt70hk

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Andrew
Coming on very nicely indeed Barry!!
 

Jakko

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I decided to use this picture as the basis for my build.
View attachment 490224
That’s a cluster bomb, probably (but I’m no expert) an M29:

M29 cluster bomb.jpgM29 cluster bomb (open).jpg

You can see the hinge in your photo. I’m not sure of the colours of cluster bombs, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the single yellow line indicates that it’s a cluster bomb.

Judging by the shape, the bombs on your Liberator do seem to be those. I had kind of expected them to be AN-M64 general-purpose bombs instead:

AN-M64 GP bomb.jpg
 

Tim Marlow

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The bomb at the front of the picture is a cluster, as you say Jakko. However, the one in the background on the trolley looks like a TNT filled HE, with something else (possibly a smaller incendiary) in front of it. The bomb load out would be mixed to generate maximum effect, depending upon the target. Blast would open up the buildings, incendiary would then set them alight, and cluster would eliminate personnel. Pretty brutal really.
Looks good though Barry.
 

BarryW

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Interesting discussion. Yes, all 12 bombs look like the cluster bombs and I am painting them accordingly.
As this aircraft was used in N Africa an anti-personnel load-out makes more sense than for a squadron operating over Germany.
 

BarryW

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One of my favourite and most versatile products, that I use on every build are the Uschi Metal Powders.

They come in three types
Chrome effect, Steel effect and Iron effect.

In the picture below the bomb on the left has been painted, a brown wash applied to take the edge of newness off the paint and provide shadow and finally a matt varnish coat.

The one on the right has then been dry brushed with the Uschi Metal Powder, Chrome effect.
IMG_7044.jpeg

You can really see how the metal powder bring out highlights but, more than that, it creates a look of painted worn metal.

I tend to do most of my dry brushing this way as it really lifts the appearance of any part. You just need to be careful not to use it on something that’s meant to be wooden, such as a wooden propeller.

By the way, the ‘Chrome effect’ does not give a chrome appearance, it is just a little ‘brighter’ making it great for highlights.

The Steel effect is blueish and rubbed onto a matt black surface can be polished into a great natural steel look.

The Iron effect is not as bright as the Chrome and I often use it to provide some contrast.

I use these (Chrome and Iron) for chipping, applying and rubbing it in with a cocktail stick.
 

Jim R

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That impressive Barry. For the bombs did you dry brush the powder with a brush?
 

BarryW

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That impressive Barry. For the bombs did you dry brush the powder with a brush?
Yes I did. The metal powder can be applied many ways, dry brushed with a brush, with the pointy end of a cocktail stick, a cotton bud etc to achieve the effects you want. It is best done on a matt surface though. I have seen some people produce a Natural Metal Finish using it, rubbed and buffed onto a matt black surface. Personally though for a NMF I prefer to spray metalisers but, in some situations, on small parts I have used them.
 
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