1/35 scale Centurion Mk.12

adt70hk

I know its a bit sad but I like quickbuild kits!!!
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Mike

Sorry got very behind on this. Just had a catch-up. That is coming on beautifully. And love the camo net technique. Simple but very effective.

ATB.

Andrew
 

Scratchbuilder

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Update,
Cent now in the paint shop....
Green is CARC Green.
Black is Camoflague Black
Both from Scale Model Shop (The Scale Modellers Supply)
The canvas mantlet cover is Tamiya Deck Tan.
And for a slight contrast in colour the Fascine frame and the plough are in a lighter Green in this case 4B0...
Obviously it will all be toned down once the detail painting and weathering commences...
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More later
Cheers
Mike..
 

Scratchbuilder

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No real update today, still on with weathering, painting tracks and generally making the cam net for the barrel.
About a year ago I stated that I was going to stop using acrylics, well after sorting out and using up the bottles I had, the day has come and gone when I tried to spray one colour, the paint was 'Air' it got a dash of thinners and flow improver, the air pressure was a tad high at 1.8bar, the air was dry and warm, there was no wind blowing, the airbrush was my usual one and there was no intricate detail painting to be done, just a one coat colour. It coughed, it spluttered, I mixed up a fresh batch, got the prayer mat out - but it just would not work.... So stripped and cleaned out the airbrush, and into the pot went some old Humbrol paint from the stone age, suitably mixed in a pill cup 50/50. Did it spray - it went on perfectly...
And so flushed with success I dug out the old Badger 250, the one I use for spraying diluted pva, ready mixed concrete, the coatings you see on walls (I think you get the picture) and the job was to spray a whole A4 sheet in a brown colour to replicate ration boxes. Out came the acrylic (different make and bottle) and you got it, the same thing happened.... Found a tin of 'sand' coloured enamel, 50/50 mix and on it went like it was made for the job, no spiders, no runs, no build up...
And so the few acrylic paints I had are now residing in the bin, I am free..... From now on it is back to enamels, lacquers and oils....
Pics of the weathering to follow later today
 

Scratchbuilder

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Update,
Gone is the nice shiney green and black, next it is the toned down version.
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The turret with the camoflague net fixed in place.

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And now the weathering starts.
All of the major parts (hull,turret, 'bazooka' plates and wheels) were given a wash of Flory Models 'Grime' wash. This was left for about 15 minutes and then a dampened flat brush was used to remove most of the 'Grime'. I then went back over the hull, turret and bazooka plates with a 'fan' paintbrush that had first been dipped into clean water and then the excess wiped on a folded piece of kitchen towel. The brush was then lightly used in a downward motion where the clean water on the bristles cleaned off the grime some more but left streaks that same as you would get from rain running vertically down a verticle or sloping surface.
This has been allowed to dry for 24 hours, and during that time I painted the tracks ready for fitting.
Next will be adding the rust texture to the exhaust system and to the blades and 'ski's' on the plough, then will come a fine dusting of dirt to try and match the photograph of the real vehicle.
More later
Mike.
 

Andy T

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This is looking superb already Mike!

And so the few acrylic paints I had are now residing in the bin, I am free..... From now on it is back to enamels, lacquers and oils....
Will they cover any brush painting that's needed? I've only really used acrylic for that, perhaps I should branch out.
 

Scratchbuilder

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This is looking superb already Mike!


Will they cover any brush painting that's needed? I've only really used acrylic for that, perhaps I should branch out.
Sorry Andy a bit thick today so bear with me.
If it is the wash from Flory, it will cover all paint versions except you need to have a matt or satin base to work with, with gloss and with the wash being water based it just runs off the model. I usually have a matt varnish applied over the paint or use matt paints. For spraying matt varnish I use AK Ultra Matte Varnish, it looks terrible when it goes on but dries flat and as you can see is totally matt.
As for enamels/lacquers, they will cover acrylics.
 

Andy T

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I confused things by using the word "cover" I think, sorry! "be suitable for" would probably make more sense.

I mean, since you have now ditched all of your acrylics, will you be able to carry out any brush painting that is needed with your remaining media?
 

Scratchbuilder

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I confused things by using the word "cover" I think, sorry! "be suitable for" would probably make more sense.

I mean, since you have now ditched all of your acrylics, will you be able to carry out any brush painting that is needed with your remaining media?
Confusion cleared.
Yes you can still brush paint, and with the AK, Tamiya etc you can actually thin by about 25% or to airbrush get a new pot of the colour you want to airbrush and fill to just below the rim and that is sufficient to airbrush.
Oils will come in for blending and adding the streaks plus there is a selection of colours that simulate rust, so fun can be had blending and thinning on the model.
 

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The flat coat has worked well Mike, looks ace :cool:
Thanks Si, when you first spray it on it looks like giant orange peel and if you are not used to the initial effect or have forgotten, the panic bells and alarms start going off. I had forgotten, and it was a case of stick with it or pick the whole lot up and dunk it in the sink :cold-sweat: but like the coward I am, I just left it in the shed and locked the door for a couple of hours....
 

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Update,
Weathering is underway - first on the menu is to give the vehicle a dusty appearance. This was achieved by first mixing VMS 02 Light Earth pigments into a pot and then adding ordinary water from the tap untill I had the consistency of thin ink. The hull took the first position as I could try out the opacity of the mix on the underside. Once this was to my satisfaction then the whole upper surface, front and rear were coated in the mix and set aside to dry. Next it was the tracks - but only the outer surface, as the mix would in places run through the sprocket holes to add some difference to the running surface of the tracks. Then it was add more water to the mix and give the wheels, Idler wheels and drive sprockets a thin coat. Finally came the 'Bazooka plates' and a thinner mix going over the turret...
All of this was left overnight.
Today I started removing most of the mix I had put on using clean tap water in a pot and using various brushes first dipped in the water and then the excess removed by touching the brush onto some folded kitchen roll. And I kept removing the mix untill I was happy with the end result. To add the streaks I used a fan brush stroking in a downward direction.
The tracks came in for a different approach. I have an old handkerchief (washed and unused) which I soaked in water and then it was rung out untill it was damp. This was then wiped over the rubber pads with the 'kerchief wrapped around a finger and with a couple of strokes from the centre outwards, removing the mix, followed by a wipe with a piece of tiolet roll (again unused) to soak up any excess water...

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Right side is after, Left side is before removal of the mix...

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Tracks before....

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Tracks after...

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Tracks fitted and Fascine carrier test fitted as I broke off the securing clamp during wheel fitting...

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A dry fit of the turret and Fascine carrier...
Still more work on the weathering to do...
More later.
Many thanks for all the comments and likes.
Cheers
Mike.
 
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