Airfix 1/24 Supermarine Spitfire MK VB

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Mike

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\ said:
I believe the lack of dihedral is fairly well known with this kit. Someone somewhere will have detailed the fix, I suppose.
Yup, Alan will, in about a week ;)
 
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I've been thinking about this wing Dihedral problem.Ive decided I will make a wing spar when I build mine.I've got some 2mm plastic card left over from when I built a vacform kit a few years ago.Just need to find a head on view of the wing to get the correct angle.Then I need to work out where to fit it so it won't get in the way of any internal parts.
 
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Alan 45

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Well I've been doing the filing on this over the last few days and it's not easy considering the size of some gaps

View attachment 94518

Those fines on the top of the wings look out of scale to me but that could be the size of it View attachment 94519

the front of the canopy has a fair size gap on the starboard side and the front View attachment 94520

you have to fill in two of the mg apatures and that takes a bit of build up to get them flat , I still have work to do here View attachment 94521

the Aboukir intake takes quite a bit of filling and seeing as this is not in the instructions it's best to take a look at photos to get the position correct View attachment 94522

a very large gap here on both sides that just would not close up so I filled it instead and I'm hopping my paint job will cover the worst of it
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Stevekir

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This is very interesting Alan, I'd like to build one of these except I haven't the room for it!
My 1/72 Lancaster is in a box, with wings separate, which is a shame. I am thinking of hanging it from the ceiling of the spare room, like a mobile. Near the ceiling it might not collect much dust.
 

peterairfix

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Think of m.jackson "filler filler" (sorry i have the coat waiting) :D :D
 
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\ said:
Well I've been doing the filing on this over the last few days and it's not easy considering the size of some gapsView attachment 95606 Those fines on the top of the wings look out of scale to me but that could be the size of it View attachment 95607 the front of the canopy has a fair size gap on the starboard side and the front View attachment 95608 you have to fill in two of the mg apatures and that takes a bit of build up to get them flat , I still have work to do here View attachment 95609 the Aboukir intake takes quite a bit of filling and seeing as this is not in the instructions it's best to take a look at photos to get the position correct View attachment 95610 a very large gap here on both sides that just would not close up so I filled it instead and I'm hopping my paint job will cover the worst of it
I've got a tube of Squadron Green filler reserved for my Spitfire build!.
 

Alan 45

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Painting has begun and I've added an oil wash and I wasn't happy with the look so I decided to wipe it all off with a kitchen towl and this is how it turned out View attachment 94593

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monica

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looks like so much hard work Alan all that filling oh my,:rolleyes:

but your work has payed off by the looks of it,and the underside looks great to me,

just lefted enough to show up most panel line,maybe just a touch up hear and there ;)
 

Alan 45

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Cheers folks :smiling3:

Now I've painted the top in mid stone acrylic and given it an oil wash of burnt umber View attachment 94641

as you can see it's very rough looking and I've left the excess blue overspill on it to see how that looks when I add the oil dry brush View attachment 94642

ive now added the oil dry brush to the port wing and fuse as you can see it's taken out the rough brush marks of the umber oil wash and gave it a faded look as these had and you get a softer finish than using acrylics , the oil colours I used for this were yellow okra with a white , now the only problem with using oils is they take an awfull long time to dry so you can only do one side at a time , I've been quite stingy with this side so hopefully the other side will be ready by tomorrow:smiling3:
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D

dubster72

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There's a way to reduce the drying time with oil washes Alan - instead of using white spirit as a thinner, use lighter fluid instead. It dries much quicker due to its higher flashpoint.

An acrylic protective coat is a must though, as sometimes the fluid affects the base coat if not fully cured.
 

Alan 45

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Cheers Patrick I'll give that a try , your right about the protective coat but sometimes that can make the paint look worn and chipped as it did here so it has its advantages View attachment 94643

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colin m

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\ said:
I've got a tube of Squadron Green filler reserved for my Spitfire build!.
Is that all, I'm getting a box of polyfilla, just in case................
 

Alan 45

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Looks fine Alan ;)
Do you think that once the oil has dryed a very fine dry brush of aluminium on the rivets might look good mate?
 
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Polux

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I'm waiting for my model...but I want to try with an aluminum pencil... Maybe can work!! But I'm not sure!!!

I will try some different painting options on my Typhoon :smiling3:
 
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dubster72

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I'm waiting for my model...but I want to try with an aluminum pencil... Maybe can work!! But I'm not sure!!!I will try some different painting options on my Typhoon :smiling3:
Polux , on my 109 E-4, all the panel lines & chipping were done with coloured pencils - no paint at all! I've done the same on my 1/72 Typhoon which I'll be posting soon
 
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dubster72

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I like it Alan, it's the closest you're gonna get to airbrushing with a hairy stick!

Now just leave it for a week for the oil paint to dry ;)
 
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