Scratchbuilder
SMF Supporter
Yes John, I will go back through my orders and see if I can find the seller and let you know.Wibble those electrical boxes and cable runs are brilliant. Is the cable from the lead you mentioned to me.
Wibble.
Yes John, I will go back through my orders and see if I can find the seller and let you know.Wibble those electrical boxes and cable runs are brilliant. Is the cable from the lead you mentioned to me.
Wibble.
Many thanks Chris.HI Mike very nice work my freind an very detailed you have put in brilliant
chrisb
Yes, I found some tie downs on a fret (in fact two lots) which has saved me going the wire route, so I drill the guide holes, and pop in a drop of c/a and then the tie down follows. I do have the etched ones from Aber but find I waste more than I use trying to bend them even on a jig. I must look into making a jig...Nice work as usual Is the jig for drilling holes for the tie-downs, so you can superglue a bit of wire in?
Probably a secret and if he tells you he'll have to kill you!!! Or at least get you to eat your greens!!!!!HI Mike now this may be a stupid question but on these tanks how did the makers make the eleetric wires go up from the hull to the turret as it traveresed ? eg. what type of conections ?
chrisb
I am starting to feel the pain, that pain where you wished you had left the lid on and put it back in the stash...Lovely bit of detailing Mike, coming along very nicely
As Mike answered about the M109 already, I’ll give a more generic answer that applies to most tanks with fully traversing turrets: a coupling using slip rings at the bottom of the turret. This video shows it on a Centurion, with a bit of explanation (it starts at the relevant point):on these tanks how did the makers make the eleetric wires go up from the hull to the turret as it traveresed ? eg. what type of conections ?
For FULL Forum access you can upgrade your account here UPGRADE