Had also thought about that.You could also cut a piece of plastic card as a cover: put in the weight and glue the card over it. Or use two-part epoxy putty to keep the weight in place.
Personally I just used to use araldite, but CA should be fine. Mind you, it’s not going to be taken out again, so you could even use blue tack.Had also thought about that.
It might indeed have helped if they were not already closed up. If I ever build another I might give that a go. I suspect that, overall, a lot more ballast would be needed, though spread across more places. I am not really worried though about the gun bay being open and displayed.I would imagine loading the engine nacelles forward of the landing gear would do the trick as well.
There you go JakkoWhat material are those pellets you’re putting in, anyway? I can’t find it anywhere, except that it says it’s non-toxic, so that pretty much rules out that it’s lead. The manufacturer’s site also says that a 50 ml bottle weighs almost 250 g, which implies a specific gravity of only about 5.
All this leads me to think that you could get the nose wheel on the ground if you packed the nose with fine lead shot (sg around 11), as that would weigh over twice what the Liquid Gravity product appears to do. Even fine steel shot (sg a little under 8) would be heavier, it seems.
Thanks, that confirms what I thought: sg between 3 and 5, it says. The exact composition isn’t included, but the heaviest thing I see in the list is nickel, and I doubt that makes up the majority of it. Basic steel shot should be heavier, never mind lead shot, though that may be hard to find these days?
I have something similar, hopefully not nicked off a church roof. I've also got some very old lead shot which I'm pretty certain is lead (or mostly lead). I still ended up having to wire the front wheel of at least one aircraft to its base in order to hold it down.I’ve got a tin of roofing lead offcuts from when my last house‘ roof was renewed thirty years ago….still using it up….very easy to cut and to hammer it into shape.
DU must be pretty safe, it’s used to line containers that transport radioactive substances and make them radiation proof…..it’s a bit rarefied for modelling though…..and not easily available, even though it’s a nuclear industry waste product. Uranium used to be used extensively for glass colouration (Art deco luminous green glass) and ceramics work.I have something similar, hopefully not nicked off a church roof. I've also got some very old lead shot which I'm pretty certain is lead (or mostly lead). I still ended up having to wire the front wheel of at least one aircraft to its base in order to hold it down.
I've used all sorts of things, but never uranium.
Can you buy it here? It's fairly safe, U-238 has a half life of several billion years* so its not exactly highly radio active. You could leave it next to your pet Iguana and he won't grow 300 feet tall and attack Tokyo!
*Schoolboy joke alert: "I purchased this U-238 4.47 billion years ago and when I opened it today, it was half empty."
LOL. I do wonder.That canopy fit is truly terrible Barry. Are you sure it's for this kit
I actually do, more often than not, pose fighter canopies open. I might try that but I am concerned that under the masking I will find the transparencies damaged after all the messing around. If I cannot find a replacement that fits it is either that or I bin the model. I will certainly check the transparencies before binning it.I know it's not your usual way Barry but could it be made to look passable posed open?
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