HK Models 1/32 scale D. H. Mosquito
- Thread starter BarryW
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stona
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- Steve
That's a fair point.
I suppose there is a lot more choice than there was 40-50 years ago. Speaking for myself, if it was raining there was scalextrix or making a model, if it was nice out, then indoor pursuits were definitely put on hold
This is before beer and girls entered the equation!Cheers
Steve
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I did not get a lot of time at the bench over Friday/weekend (but I did book a test drive for a new car and, the missus agreed to a 55 inch 4K TV and soun bar plus new blue-ray - and ordered it all!!!)....
Anyway - here is my progress to date:
The above need to be masked tonight, I will then be doing washes and dry brushing on the tail wheel assembly.
below is the canopy all masked up. Yes, it will be a while before I apply paint but with such a large model it is easier to get this done now rather than when to main build is completed.
I really do recommend the Eduard masks for this, its worth it. The canopy framing is quite complex and using ordinary tape would drive you mad! I will also tonight trim the liquid mask with a knife in a few places where it needs it.
Anyway - here is my progress to date:
The above need to be masked tonight, I will then be doing washes and dry brushing on the tail wheel assembly.
below is the canopy all masked up. Yes, it will be a while before I apply paint but with such a large model it is easier to get this done now rather than when to main build is completed.
I really do recommend the Eduard masks for this, its worth it. The canopy framing is quite complex and using ordinary tape would drive you mad! I will also tonight trim the liquid mask with a knife in a few places where it needs it.
Managed nearly an hour last night.
I first of all used some Mr Surfacer 500 on the tail joins. The fit is good so only a little was needed I then did the did i.p.a. trick (which works with other Mr filler products and Vallejo Plastic Putty). I dipped cotton buds into ipa and rubbed the filler removing excess in a way that does not damage detail and is a lot easier than sanding.
I then used these to weather the tail wheel.
The result the detail pops out. I did some drybrushing with a metalliser as well on the strut.
I am not very pleased with my photography, I apologise for that but I just have my iphone. One of these days I will get a better camera and will learn to use it.
I first of all used some Mr Surfacer 500 on the tail joins. The fit is good so only a little was needed I then did the did i.p.a. trick (which works with other Mr filler products and Vallejo Plastic Putty). I dipped cotton buds into ipa and rubbed the filler removing excess in a way that does not damage detail and is a lot easier than sanding.
I then used these to weather the tail wheel.
The result the detail pops out. I did some drybrushing with a metalliser as well on the strut.
I am not very pleased with my photography, I apologise for that but I just have my iphone. One of these days I will get a better camera and will learn to use it.
I made a start on the undercarriage last night. It was delicate work as the parts are quite fine. The clean up was minimal though and the scrapers helped a lot. There are some angles that will need to be achieved with the struts so I made sure some parts are not cemented in position.
when fitting the pipe work a piece pinged off the tweezers never to be seen again.
So out comes the lead wire which is exactly the right circumference.
below is the cut piece in situ and it is spot on I am rather pleased with it
D20 in the instructions is the piece in question
Done, the long strut is not cemented in place as is the odd shaped part hanging off it
that was an hours work which was the my whole seasion last night. Four more legs like that to do !
when fitting the pipe work a piece pinged off the tweezers never to be seen again.
So out comes the lead wire which is exactly the right circumference.
below is the cut piece in situ and it is spot on I am rather pleased with it
D20 in the instructions is the piece in question
Done, the long strut is not cemented in place as is the odd shaped part hanging off it
that was an hours work which was the my whole seasion last night. Four more legs like that to do !
A
Airfix Modeller Freak
Guest
Looking good so far mate.
how is the arc scraper?
Cheers, John
how is the arc scraper?
Cheers, John
More progress...
I built up another leg... but had the same problem as before, with the same equivilent part...so out comes the good old lead wire.....
Also started pulling together other pieces for the wheel including the wheel itself, all now awaiting clean-up...
I glued together the forward and rear fuselage sections. A piece of tape and gravity is holding them in exactly the right position while some Mr S Cement was used sparingly in a couple of places clear of the tape to pin them together. Tonight I will remove the tape and the clamps to run Mr S around the joint and inside to make sure it has a good bond. It is exactly like Tamiya Extra Thin, but better, using capillary action - I use it for 90% of my glueing.
Those clamps are really useful and versatile.
I built up another leg... but had the same problem as before, with the same equivilent part...so out comes the good old lead wire.....
Also started pulling together other pieces for the wheel including the wheel itself, all now awaiting clean-up...
I glued together the forward and rear fuselage sections. A piece of tape and gravity is holding them in exactly the right position while some Mr S Cement was used sparingly in a couple of places clear of the tape to pin them together. Tonight I will remove the tape and the clamps to run Mr S around the joint and inside to make sure it has a good bond. It is exactly like Tamiya Extra Thin, but better, using capillary action - I use it for 90% of my glueing.
Those clamps are really useful and versatile.
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so the carpet monster has also moved house... bugger. lol
Looking good.
Looking good.
I've just caught up Barry some cracking work and a great fix on the undercarrage part.
N
noble
Guest
that's looking great Barry I do like the mosquito.
Here is latest progress. Both undercarriages components in subassemblies and ready for paint.
Started on wing as well, beautifully engineered. Sone pics.
The instructions would have you measuring on the wing to drill holes to take the underwing fuel tanks. Blow that. I have sanded off the location pins and will cement them in place using mk1 eyeball.
It would have been better to have small raised impressions on the wing for where to drill. Easier to lightly sand over these if you are not installing the tanks than try measuring so precisely onto the plastic
Started on wing as well, beautifully engineered. Sone pics.
The instructions would have you measuring on the wing to drill holes to take the underwing fuel tanks. Blow that. I have sanded off the location pins and will cement them in place using mk1 eyeball.
It would have been better to have small raised impressions on the wing for where to drill. Easier to lightly sand over these if you are not installing the tanks than try measuring so precisely onto the plastic
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Continued to put together various sub-assemblies and have been enjoying the excellent engineering and fit.
I have the seams to clean up on the cookie bomb and a couple more pieces and then I will start painting.
The engines are built up. As I will be having a closed up build I will not be painting these. They are very nice represations of the Merlin, perhaops not quite as good as the Tamiya ones but nevertheless very good. I will, of course, paint the exhausts before fitting.
I have glued the external fuel tanks to the wings. As mentioned before I decided that it would be easier to position them by eye than to try drilling those holes with such precise measurements. I am glad I did as the fuel tanks were no problem as all. Here is the first of them held in place with the cement drying.
I will star spraying primer this week once all parts are cleaned up with ipa. I will be usuing the Stynylrez Black primer.
I have the seams to clean up on the cookie bomb and a couple more pieces and then I will start painting.
The engines are built up. As I will be having a closed up build I will not be painting these. They are very nice represations of the Merlin, perhaops not quite as good as the Tamiya ones but nevertheless very good. I will, of course, paint the exhausts before fitting.
I have glued the external fuel tanks to the wings. As mentioned before I decided that it would be easier to position them by eye than to try drilling those holes with such precise measurements. I am glad I did as the fuel tanks were no problem as all. Here is the first of them held in place with the cement drying.
I will star spraying primer this week once all parts are cleaned up with ipa. I will be usuing the Stynylrez Black primer.
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Coming together nicely now. Pity to hide those Merlins, but its your build.
I can see one of these ending up in my stash before long.
I can see one of these ending up in my stash before long.
I did a test fit of the wings to the fuselage and, quite frankly, you cannot get better than this.
I have some painting to do before I actually fit them as you can see but its nice to see that the fitting willm not be an issue.
Most of last night was spent cleaning up the work area, wiping down and getting rid of mostly plastic dust from sanding. I also sorted components into those that need painting now and those that can wait until the construction is done. Tonight I will be fixing parts to sticks etc and cleaning them with ipa ready for airbrushing.
I have some painting to do before I actually fit them as you can see but its nice to see that the fitting willm not be an issue.
Most of last night was spent cleaning up the work area, wiping down and getting rid of mostly plastic dust from sanding. I also sorted components into those that need painting now and those that can wait until the construction is done. Tonight I will be fixing parts to sticks etc and cleaning them with ipa ready for airbrushing.
I managed to get on with some painting last night but my phone battery died on me after taking one photo!
I have primed in Stynylrez Black primer, except for the prop tips where I used the yellow Stynylrex as it covers well and offers a great base for the yellow paint itself. I was tempted to leave the primer as the yellow tips but concluded htey look a bit too pale. The props and spinner are done now and I will post a pic tomorrow, I am leaving the black primer as the colour. They will need weathering in due course.
Most of the paintwork, over the primer, was with metallisers mostly on the undercarriage. My metalliser of choice is the AKI Extreme Metals that spray superby at a low air pressure of about 10psi with a 0.4 needle. They do smell a bit though not as badly as Alclads and, by reputation, they are easier to use than Alclads.
I am using these shades:
I decided to use the four different shades on the same principal by which we spray different panels different shades when we do a natural metal finish on a model. I am careful to make sure that I used the same shade for the same components, for instance dark aluminium for the wheel hubs, matte aluminium for the main u/c struts, white alum for the small struts and so on.
I am not sure how well these subtle differences will show on the completed model once washes have been applied but its worth a try.
Well, that was the only photo I managed but I will post more tomorrow...
I have primed in Stynylrez Black primer, except for the prop tips where I used the yellow Stynylrex as it covers well and offers a great base for the yellow paint itself. I was tempted to leave the primer as the yellow tips but concluded htey look a bit too pale. The props and spinner are done now and I will post a pic tomorrow, I am leaving the black primer as the colour. They will need weathering in due course.
Most of the paintwork, over the primer, was with metallisers mostly on the undercarriage. My metalliser of choice is the AKI Extreme Metals that spray superby at a low air pressure of about 10psi with a 0.4 needle. They do smell a bit though not as badly as Alclads and, by reputation, they are easier to use than Alclads.
I am using these shades:
I decided to use the four different shades on the same principal by which we spray different panels different shades when we do a natural metal finish on a model. I am careful to make sure that I used the same shade for the same components, for instance dark aluminium for the wheel hubs, matte aluminium for the main u/c struts, white alum for the small struts and so on.
I am not sure how well these subtle differences will show on the completed model once washes have been applied but its worth a try.
Well, that was the only photo I managed but I will post more tomorrow...