Scotties Airfix M3A1 Scout car.

[scottie3158]

The springs look superb Paul, Shim steel may be a bit difficult to work with, I use it at work. The brass you have used looks just right, why use something else?

Hi mate I used to use it as well and thinking about it your probably right it should cut ok but maybe difficult to join them together.

Never fail to amaze all here at Race Towers Paul.

You could always do a Steve" Rivet " Jones, remember the mirror he had underneath a model ?

Thanks John, no mirror this time will be making a base for this one.

He’ll need one for his latest model, as he’s trying to convert a K2 ambulance into the exact one from that Ice Cold Whatever movie with it that all you Brits seem to love, but most of the conversions needed are underneath.

Jakko, Steve has the skills to do it.

He’s obviously doing the dodge based one rather than the “stock” version then……I believe there were five different ambulances used, but the dodge one was better off road so was used for the most difficult off road scenes.

Tim, I didn't know that, everyday is a school day

Paul, in answer to your query. No, I am NOT building one of these scout cars in 1/9th. I am still slowly plodding on with the Manx. It is unbelievable how much is wrong or simply missing.
John.

John, I will have to have a look.

I didn’t really follow the research thread but I gather it’s some kind of odd hybrid from different chassis/driveline parts. Also see here for the build.

Cheers Jakko, I haven't been on that site for ages.

 

[scottie3158]

Using 0.6mm punched rivets I have come up with this.



Next to make and fit the tie downs before detailing the inside.


cheers
Scottie

 

[Jim R]

That looks excellent Scottie. I've seen Steve's build of Katy from Ice Cold in Alex.

Steve has the skills to do it.

Your skills are up there too.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi mate I used to use it as well and thinking about it your probably right it should cut ok but maybe difficult to join them together.

Thanks John, no mirror this time will be making a base for this one.

Jakko, Steve has the skills to do it.

Tim, I didn't know that, everyday is a school day

John, I will have to have a look.

Cheers Jakko, I haven't been on that site for ages.

My bad, not a Dodge, it was based on a Chevy CMP chassis.

 

[scottie3158]

That looks excellent Scottie. I've seen Steve's build of Katy from Ice Cold in Alex.

Your skills are up there too.

Cheers Jim, that is very kind of you.

My bad, not a Dodge, it was based on a Chevy CMP chassis.

Tim, I just had a read through as well.

 

[David Lovell]

Mind blowing stuff Paul..........

 

[scottie3158]

Mind blowing stuff Paul..........

Thanks David glad you approve.

 

[scottie3158]

I am finding this quite relaxing at the moment but slow going. I have added the next panel under the drivers door.


The tie downs have been made and added.



and a little bit more added to the interior.



A lot of the interior detail will have to be added when I have all the sides on so I can measure accurately the dimensions to scratch the gun rail.

I have some quinto rivets on order and depending on how they look and how easy they are to use I may remove the punched rivets as they do look a bit big or is it me?

cheers
Scottie

 

[Jakko]

IMHO, the rivets and tie-downs do look a bit large compared to the real thing:



No idea how big they were on the real thing, but if I measure a little in this picture using the ruler tool in Photoshop, then the whole side panel you scratchbuilt is 663 pixels long front edge to back edge (measured over the double row of rivets near the top, along the line formed by the sets of rivets at the rear before they start rising to conform to the sloping front part), and one rivet is about 4 pixels across. So measure up your panel’s length, divide by 663 and multiply by 4 to get a reasonable rivet diameter?

Also, you’ve fitted the stowage box inside but forgot the reinforcing plate on the inside that it sits against, which you can see in the photo above.

 

[scottie3158]

IMHO, the rivets and tie-downs do look a bit large compared to the real thing:

View attachment 500860

No idea how big they were on the real thing, but if I measure a little in this picture using the ruler tool in Photoshop, then the whole side panel you scratchbuilt is 663 pixels long front edge to back edge (measured over the double row of rivets near the top, along the line formed by the sets of rivets at the rear before they start rising to conform to the sloping front part), and one rivet is about 4 pixels across. So measure up your panel’s length, divide by 663 and multiply by 4 to get a reasonable rivet diameter?

Also, you’ve fitted the stowage box inside but forgot the reinforcing plate on the inside that it sits against, which you can see in the photo above.

Thanks Jakko, not sure what reinforcing plate you mean is it the one that runs vertically from the centre of the box if it I still have to add it.

 

[Mini Me]

The actual diameter of the rivet head differs from its bore diameter, usually two times the diameter of the bore. Example, if you have a 1/4 inch dia. rivet...the exposed head will be 1/2 inch in dia. They really show up well in photos. Yours look fine Scottie....even if just a tad over scale, they will blend in beautifully and virtually disappear once you get the CITB....as to the exterior, all the better to see them once painted weathered and judiciously muddied up! Where's "Rivet Jones" when you need him???

 

[Jakko]

not sure what reinforcing plate you mean is it the one that runs vertically from the centre of the box if it I still have to add it.

That one, yes. It’s actually behind the box, the two vertical lines of rivets you can see running up from the centre of the wheel arch are what hold it to the side plates.

 

[scottie3158]

That one, yes. It’s actually behind the box, the two vertical lines of rivets you can see running up from the centre of the wheel arch are what hold it to the side plates.

Yes that has still to be fitted as are other details. Thank s for keeping me on my toes I may have missed it.

 

[Jakko]

Have you got (and/or any interest in? ) Steve Zaloga’s article in an old Military Modelling, in which he basically does what you are doing here too, namely replacing the whole rear body of this kit by plastic card?

 

[Allen Dewire]

Using 0.6mm punched rivets I have come up with this.

View attachment 500683

Next to make and fit the tie downs before detailing the inside.


cheers
Scottie

Great stuff Bro!!! I've been following from the cheap seats and loving every minute of it. Those springs were incredible and now this. At the rate you're going, you'll put Rosie the Riveter out of a job Buddy!!! Do you ever have a prob with them falling off while handling the parts? Just wondering...

Prost
Allen

 

[scottie3158]

Have you got (and/or any interest in? ) Steve Zaloga’s article in an old Military Modelling, in which he basically does what you are doing here too, namely replacing the whole rear body of this kit by plastic card?

Yes mate it will good to see how a good modeller went about it.

 

[scottie3158]

Great stuff Bro!!! I've been following from the cheap seats and loving every minute of it. Those springs were incredible and now this. At the rate you're going, you'll put Rosie the Riveter out of a job Buddy!!! Do you ever have a prob with them falling off while handling the parts? Just wondering...

Prost
Allen

Thank you mate it's always good to have you looking in. They do come off sometimes but normally I am lucky. I have some Quinta rivets on order to see how I get on with them and see how they look.

 

[Jakko]

Yes mate it will good to see how a good modeller went about it.

I’ll see about finding the back issue and scanning it, then.

 

[scottie3158]

I’ll see about finding the back issue and scanning it, then.

Jakko that would be good of you but please don't put yourself out.

 

[Jakko]

OK, in that case I’ll just link to a short version

Patton's M3A1 Scout Car by Steven J. Zaloga (Italeri / Peerless-Max 1/35)